What is the best way to rehab skis?

[mswyka]

We have received many sleds with rusted skis.  They sit out on the ground all year and can vary in condition from a light coat of surface rust to full blown rust throughs.  I am curious what others think of the best way to rehab a pair of unsightly skis?  Wire wheel?  Sand blast?  Acid Dip?  Grinding disc?  Plastic surgery?  Other?

And once the ski is in decent condition, what is the best way to re-finish?  Spray paint?  Powder coat?  Other?

Looking forward to some good thoughts.

[gixxer6]

I try to start with a solid ski, something that's not rusted through or worn thin.  I completely disassemble them.  Then take them to my local powder coated.  I have all of the pieces sand blasted and powder coated separately, gloss black.  Then reassemble with all new stainless hardware.  This makes them better than new! 

[mswyka]

Tom, sounds like a good plan.  And I really like the stainless hardware idea.  When you say starting with a solid ski, how would you describe that?  I am looking at some pitiful excuses for skis here and trying to figure out if there is a way to put them back into service.

[gixxer6]

Ideally, a solid ski wouldn't be worn thin and only have surface rust.  Obviously dents, dings, and bends are not good either.  Although some can be straightened out.  If they're rusted bad, the pitting won't be hidden by the powder coat. 

This isn't the cheapest method of restoring skis, but well worth it IMO. 

[Shawn]

I regularly fix up skis in various states of disrepair. Some of the worst are those run without wear bars that you can see through. They take more work but any ski can be saved if you need to. I'll make whatever patch pieces I need from the same thickness material, plasma cut, bend, grind, shape and weld them in. After grinding smooth, dent and bent repairs I'll sandblast to bare metal (sometimes before I start repairs and after) , wash real good with soap and water, bake for about 20 minutes at 450 and they're ready to paint or powdercoat. No touching with bare or dirty hands after the bake as that leaves finger oil or dirt/dust and mess up your pretty finish. I always blow off real clean with compressed air before painting or powder coating to try and be dust/dirt free. If you don't want any pock marks or pitting it just takes extra effort to do away with. For paint you can use JB weld, LabMetal or body filler/high build primer to fill and sand smooth. For powder coating I use High Temp LabMetal to withstand temps of 425 in the ovens. Powder coating can also be used on its own to fill less severe pitting. Just takes multiple coats with sanding in between. This will cost extra but works excellent. I coat only the pitted areas while filling and sanding smooth. Then on the final coat cover the entire ski, spring or mounts as powder thickness can build up enough to make bolt holes smaller. I work at a restoration services shop in the Green Bay Wisconsin area. Also have nearly a dozen vintage sleds. Any cleaning or prep you do before taking things for powdercoat saves you money. Blasted, stripped, sanded to bare metal parts need only be cleand, pre baked and then coated, no sandblasting fee at X dollars an hour. Saves you money towards the seat cover, windshield, hood paint etc. Check out my post called "Restoration Services" if you live anywhere near the shop I work at. If you don't live close things can be shipped ? I recently sent some Aaen pipes from Wisconsin to New York using the Post Office for just under $20. Four days but cheap. Hope this helps you with ideas to make your skis pretty again.