1979 Kawasaki Invader 340 Leak

[rickbmac]

Just purchased 1979 Kawasaki Invader 340 that has a major coolant leak that I cannot identify. Does not immediately leak until I start sled which pressurizes the system. Used flashlight to attempt to locate during idle. Loss of most of coolant while running for only a few moments could not be found, although coolant is on floor below central area of engine which leads me to believe that leak is below engine.

If anyone has experience with this problem and would help remedy, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Tory944]

Check the drain plug on the front side of the engine case (below the exhaust Y-pipe.  Maybe the drain plug is slightly open/missing?  Just because coolant "looks" like it is coming from the underside doesn't necessarily mean it is!  The coolant could be running down one of the coolant hoses.  Other places to check...  the hose that attaches to the water pump below the carburetors (lower hose).  Also, the hose that connects to your heat exchanger(s) (under the seat).  Sometimes , those short hoses deteriorate and start leaking.  Last check would be your water pump!  The pump is a split design with gaskets between halves and sometimes will leak.  Overflow tube from your radiator?  Without standing  in front of the sled...   it''s hard to diagnose, but these places would be as good a place as any to start looking.    Tory

[rickbmac]

Thank you very much,

I will check these out tonight.

rickbmac

[mswyka]

If it turns out to be the water pump, Paul, aka Quatgoat, found a waterpump repair service.  I am pretty sure it is this guy:    http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/   but perhaps Paul can comment to confirm.

[rickbmac]

I do not know how to remove the seat and do not want to break anything.
The bolts that look as though they hold the seat to the tunnel are rusted. 2 at the rear of the tunnel and 2 toward the front of the seat.
Repair manual notes 4 bolts.

[jimvw57]

Best way is to slide a hacksaw blade between the seat and the tunnel and cut them off. Almost impossible to get to the front ones with the track in place. When you are ready to put the seat back on, use a couple of self tapping screws on either side. the seat base is plastic and the screws will hold it in place just fine.  I used an 1/4 drive extension clamped in my cordless screwdriver  with a 1/4 inch socket to fit the screw heads and ran them home alongside the track. (under and inside the tunnel)   Simple.

[rickbmac]

Will do.

What is odd... is it is almost as though the bolts are not holding the seat down at the bolt locations.  It is as if what you refer to has already been done.  Thing is there are no extra bolts or screws underneath the tunnel.  Above each bolt location, and between the seat and the top of the tunnel, there is a hex head nut.  It is about 5/8" or a little larger.  The bolt does not seem to continue into the seat.  Something has to be holding the seat in place???

[kawhead]

the 5/8 nuts were molded in the seat base,now busted,pretty common....something has been added to hold the seat on

[rickbmac]

Still could not remove the seat.

Pulled the secondary, removed the air box, removed the carb on the pto side.  Had a view of the water pump.  Filled the coolant again.  Constant drip at bottom bolt of pump (head of bottom bolt of pump was entirely wet) with no pressure on system.  I can assume this means the water pump needs to be rebuilt.  Or at least new gaskets.  Could not restart sled to apply pressure to the system as one of the carbs is removed.

Does this sound as if the pump seals are bad?

[rickbmac]

Just spent a couple of hours attempting to pull the water pump.  Could not get to the last nut holding the water pump onto the oil pump.  Looks like I will have to pull the engine just to change the o-ring and gaskets.

[jimvw57]

Will do.

What is odd... is it is almost as though the bolts are not holding the seat down at the bolt locations.  It is as if what you refer to has already been done.  Thing is there are no extra bolts or screws underneath the tunnel.  Above each bolt location, and between the seat and the top of the tunnel, there is a hex head nut.  It is about 5/8" or a little larger.  The bolt does not seem to continue into the seat.  Something has to be holding the seat in place???

Maybe double sided tape or velcro??

[rickbmac]

Pulled the engine tonight . Removed and cleaned the water pump. The pump rattles really bad. Filled up with water in the kitchen sink while plugging the holes. Water came out of a small hole at the bottom of the pump. Hole is very small, but is there for a reason.

[Checkmarks]

That hole is there for identifying the seals are bad in the water pump and the leak is not from a bad gasket or loose bolts.

I would just slap on another.  Ya that darn motor needs to be out to get at the one bolt, just the way it goes.

A great time to visit the notorious seals???  The cost is CHEAP to replace them now with the motor torn out.

[rickbmac]

I will replace those seals.

If the water pump seals are out, is this a repair I can do myself?

Not afraid to tackle job, although, I do not have the water pump schematics.

[gixxer6]

I have a good used pump if you'd rather just replace it.