Hello, greetings from the Motorcity....just bought 1980 drifter 440

[motorcity]

Greetings all from the Motorcity, 
I'm a gearhead from southeast Michigan, love fast cars, trucks, dirt bikes, boats, sleds, new and old.

I just picked up a 1980 Kawasaki drifter 440 with 1100 original miles on it.  starts and runs well.   Mostly goign to use it for occasional riding and mostly ice fishing, as I'm  a fishing and hunting nut.

I like vintage stuff, I have restored many vintage motorcycles, my first vintage sled.

Is there anythign I should keep an eye out for on this machine?   I was doing a search looking for info on the machine, and saw a thread on crank seals, that they go out on these machines, and wipe out the lower end? 

Is this true, and if so, where is the best place to get parts. ?

any and all info is appreciated.

[rminier]

Welcome! Unfortunately, you just can't trust that the rubber crank seals on these motors that are 35 years old are still pliable, intact, and perfectly leak-free.
  Your Drifter motor is a fairly easy one to change those 2 seals. You wouldn't even need to bother with tearing into the top end (heads, cylinders, pistons, etc.) if it's running well and with those low miles.
  It would be a good summer project. Remove the motor, lay it upside down (with the heads pointing down), then it's a simple matter to remove the lower crankcase half so that you get to the crank seals. You can do some searches on here for a more complete tutorial for changing the seals.
  Dennis Kirk has complete gasket sets....maybe individual crank seals...would have to look at their website.
  Manufacturers Supply (MFGSupply.com) probably has just the crank seals available, if you don't need all of the rest of the gaskets..(head, cylinder base, intake, exhaust, etc.).
As far as anything else...the Drifter is a pretty stout machine. Just go through the fuel system...clean fuel tank, good fuel hoses inside the tank and from the tank to carb, clean carb, and a good impulse hose from the crankcase to the fuel pump. Never know about the fuel pump, it may need rebuilt, or it could be good for years to go.
  Enjoy the Drifter!

[rminier]

  I forgot to mention that the plastic threads on the gas tank are very easy to crack if you overtighten the gas cap. Make sure the rubber gasket inside the cap is in good shape, then be gentle when you tighten it down on to the tank.
  If the tank threads are cracked, there is no known glue or solvent that I know of that will permanently seal the crack. A fellow named Bob owns Image Enterprises in Eagle River, Wisconsin. He makes an inexpensive insert kit that makes a permanent repair if you ever needed it.

[motorcity]

well, just came back from traverse city, michigan area for the weekend.  In general, the drifter 440 ran well the 3 days I rode it. (2/29, 3/1, and 3/2/15). Used it mostly pulling a small shanty out about a half mile on the lake to my 40 foot fishing spot, and some general cruising around on the 16 inches of solid ice and 12 inches of snow on top of that, on big glen and little glen lake in glen arbor, michigan.

  on the 3rd day, it did get tempermental.  After fishing in the shanty for a couple hours, it wouldnt restart. I swapped out to a new set of NGK BR9ES (brought 4 new plugs with me), and after priming and choke, still wouldnt start. It was about 20 degrees out, 5-10 mph winds, clear sunnny day.
finally got it started, took it for a long ride on the lake to have a look at the snow covered duneswhile I was out on little glen lake (overlooks the sleeping bear dunes national lakeshore), I averaged 25-30 mph on the lake for 2-3 miles.  On the way back, I hit the throttle heavy a few times and it started backfiring.  It hadnt done that to me all weekend when hitting it with a good stab of the throttle.  I had good gas (shell  87 octane), semi-synthetic 2-stroke ratio mixed 36:1, and treated with sea foam, 2 oz per gallon.  Still, every time I tipped in heavy throttle it backfired   (after the 3rd time, I said I wont be doing this anymore) I was a couple miles from my buddy back at the shanty and there was a couple mile walk in the deep snow, no thanks.  I rode it back at light throttle, we packed up and left. 

Had me wondering why it was backfiring under load. a bit stumped.  I know I had good gas in it, and had just changed the plugs prior to the 3 mile ride, and tightened the plugs well.    Making me thinking "lean" for some reason...not getting enough fuel??  I'll have to look into what these fuel pumps are about.   

[motorcity]

and yes,  when i bought the sled, the guy selling it failed to notify me about the fuel cap threads being cracked.  It was drueling fuel out the fuel tank a bit from the crack.  I was pissed, as I didnt feel like smelling like gas, going to visit my friend and his woman, who I"m positive they woudlnt want my smelly gassy arctic armor suit blowing gas fumes throughout their house.

anyway, this had me stressed out for a few days, looking for fuel tanks everywhere, calling boneyards, etc. 

I ended up fixing it with some 2 inch pvc pipe, cut to an approximate height and sanded/filed to fit in the stock gas cap. 

I cleaned the stock threads well with carb cleaner, then contact cleaner, wiping it down well.  roughed up the inside of the cap area with 80 grit sandpaper (I first duct taped so no crap would fall into the gas tank), mixed up JB weld and applied to the outer diameter of the pvc pipe, and the inside diameter of stock thread area.   Put on a hose clamp and tightened up, let set overnight undet the heater in my friends pole barn, thank god I needed some heat for the JB weld to set up properly.

Next day, had to do some more filing and use of the dremel of the pvc, but the cap works great.   I am stoked that I was able to fix it .

I"ll attach pics later.

[Checkmarks]

Backfiring could be one of two.  First the motor could be running lean, check the jetting to make sure you are jetted correctly for altitude and temp.  Second I would lay blame on the cdi but then if it runs good with the exclusion of when you hammer down then look to the jetting.

Two strokes are critical to lean jetting and wrecking a motor.  Rich and you only get fouled plugs at worst (no motor damage) then there is a point where as you cannot start (motor still good though).  Clean new jets guarantee correct fuel metering, because you put in the correct ones.

[motorcity]

checkmark, I read your posts, but I dont understand how for two days it ran fine with no backfiring, then it starts backfiring under load on teh 3rd day.   the temp was 20f, and I"m not at any altitude (altitude woudl actually "richen" air fuel ratio)....I dont know what "correct" main jet would be "correct", but at the temps and altitude I"m running, I have to beleive the stock jets are good...

[Mark Hill]

I would check your plug caps , unscrew them an look at ends of wires for green corrosion an cut 1/4 off the end an put new or ol cap back on if it looks good . I have sen this problem many times , also I think you should run 91 non alcohol premium .

[Mister ED]

I was doing a search looking for info on the machine, and saw a thread on crank seals, that they go out on these machines, and wipe out the lower end? 

Is this true, and if so, where is the best place to get parts. ?

Start here, then move on. This should be done anyways and would cause a lean condition.

[motorcity]

Yep, thats what I plan on doing.  When weather warms up I"m going completely through teh machine, new crank seals, clean carb and fuel lines, filter., etc.