KawasakiTrax Community
Site News => Discussion & Help => Topic started by: Vader440 on November 23, 2022, 06:39:30 PM
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340 Invader 120 psi on both cylinders good spark both cylinders carbs are clean. Will start for a second or two and then nothing. Ran fine last season. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Good morning and Happy Thanksgiving. 120 sounds on the low side but should run. If all is well with the carbs, have you tried removing the exhaust to see if there is an exhaust obstruction? Could be an intake obstruction also, but less likely.
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I haven't tried removing the exhaust pipe. That's about the only thing left to try. Thank you! Happy Thanksgiving!
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Mufflers make great mouse nests.
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I sure hope that's what it is because I'm at a total loss. Thanks!
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Pulled this out of an airbox about a week ago 😳
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Pulled this out of an airbox about a week ago 😳
Mice have no respect.
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No respect!
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Still no go. Compression good, fresh fuel and carbs are clean, spark good, pulled off exhaust pipe. It still only pops a little but will not start. Can you have spark and the CDI still be bad? Flywheel key? Very frustrating. Walking away from it for now. Maybe try again sometime.
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It's definitely timing of some sort, check the flywheel key, it's rare, but they can sheer. Also check that the bolts that hold the stator on are tight, you can see that they are, by just looking through the holes on the magneto screwdriver. Tightness with a skrewdriver.
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That was supposed to say check tightness with a screwdriver, dont loosen the skrews, just see if they are already loose.
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How is the fuel pump and the lines going to and from it?? Is the primer still hooked up?? I have seen them leaking air and causing this very thing. Try putting a little gas down the plug holes and "if" it starts watch all the fuel lines for moving air bubbles. Good luck!!
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It's definitely timing of some sort, check the flywheel key, it's rare, but they can sheer. Also check that the bolts that hold the stator on are tight, you can see that they are, by just looking through the holes on the magneto screwdriver. Tightness with a skrewdriver.
Yes, this is important. I had an Intruder that frustrated me a few years ago. I finally found the key had slipped out while putting on the flywheel. It was stuck to one of the magnets. Never would have found the problem without pulling the flywheel.
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I plugged off the primer tubes just to make sure they weren't leaking, still no go. I will try to pull flywheel next. Thanks for the info.
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That was supposed to say check tightness with a screwdriver, dont loosen the skrews, just see if they are already loose.
I'll take a look. Thank you!
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Do you have a troubleshooting chart? My engine is inverted so it floods easily. I can spray starting fluid by taking off my air filter; I know you would have to remove the silencer. I'm also working on a starting issue. Today I found deep cracks in both sides of my carb boot. After just barely getting it to run two days ago, I noticed the fin wet with fuel below the intake manifold. I torqued my intake bolts to the max, but no change. I just did an air leak-down test a few months and held pressure for hours a few months ago before I installed the engine. Now I'm trying to get the part number for the boot. The rubber is old, and the carb has been off many times since and turning it in the boot for level.
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This is what I have done so far. I disconnected the wiring harness from the engine to bypass the switch and safety switch. I wanted to take those completely out of the possibilities. Good spark and good compression on both cylinders. I started it but it would only run on one cylinder. This was an improvement at least because before it wouldn't even start it would just pop a little. I rechecked the spark and it was still good. I saw the spark plug was wet with fuel. I adjusted the float in that carburetor which was adjusted to high. I started it again and it seemed better but still not right. I noticed air bubbles in the primer lines bouncing all over the place, so I revved it up a couple times and the bubbles suddenly disappeared and at the same moment it cleared up and started running perfect. So, I think I had a couple things going on. First the float was out of adjustment, and I think the primer is bad allowing air to be sucked in. So, my plan of attack is to first replace the primer and then test the safety switch and ignition switch plug it all back in and see what happens. Right now, it's running very well although I didn't run it long. How are you coming along on your project?
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Good work!!