KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Johnny speed on April 20, 2014, 11:16:58 AM
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79 Invader secondary bushing feels very loose when I slide the moveable sheave onto the jack shaft ! Are these bushings still available? part # 92028-3004 , Yamaha secondary almost fit but splines did not fit! Thanks for any help
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... a word from my experience... I have replaced both the large and small bushings in the Kawi secondaries w/factory bushings... even after the new replacements the large bushing has plenty of wiggle. I had a machine shop press in the bushing and he commented that there wasn't much difference between the one I replaced and the new one. I suspect the tolerance is not tight from the factory. These were OEM bushings. If you'd like to try OEM for yourself, call Image Enterprises (Bob) and I think he still has them. 715-479-7427. Tory
IMO... If you'd like to see a tighter tolerance I'd find another source for bushings or have some made closer to spec.
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Thanks Tory, the big one is fine- its the small one that rides on the jackshaft that has a lot of play!
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when that ones bad check your shaft for taper.....and it will sometimes break the coupler....
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Jackshaft mic's the same all across the secondary end-slightly less then 1" , outer end bushing is good that rides on the (coupler)? All good except the inner on jackshaft!
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I know this probably isn't what you want to hear, but do you have another jackshaft?? You know where I am going with this... Always good to keep a few spares of everything. You know, you feel like you are doing yourself a favor by "cleaning up the yard" until you need that part you tossed... then you pull your hair out and kick yourself for tossing it. I've never had a problem with excessive small bushing "play". Because of its size (high wear) the larger bushing most generally tends to be the problem. If you have a "loose" jacksaft for parts you could check your tolerance before installing in the sled. I am sure there are some Kawi guys on here who could line you up with another jackshaft if you were interested in going that route (including myself). Good luck! Tory
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We have some really good swap meets in the fall in this area and I could pick up the whole secondary , jackshaft , etc. then.
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Tory, my buddy has a 75 Sno Twister that runs great but falls off at the top end, titened secondary spring 1/3 turn-great hole shot but still falls flat up top , suspect the new aftermarket cdi? He does not like it when we line up and he gets the hole shot but l fly by on my 76 liquid Nitro! My lnvader starts bogging after warm and always got smoked when we line up-l just got another stator in it and need to button up and set timing yet then l think the invader will be a contender!
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I checked tonite and the jack shaft measures .980 from the bearing out to the end of the shaft including the spline
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... It doesn't take much for there to be slop with the bushings. You might be surprised from one jackshaft to the next. Sometimes past owners will clean the shafts by media blasting or sanding to clean em' up and both will take away material... not a good thing. Also, do not use any type of lubricant on the shaft or bushing (I believe the bushings are copper/bronze) and some of these products will ruin the bushings. The kawi manuals also confirm this. You were probably aware of this, but sometimes the simple things can get overlooked.
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If your buddy is running the original Mikuni "adjustable main jets (bowls)" might want to check the main jet adjustment. The Free Air motors are finiky and I suspect he might be running rich on top. I never liked those adjustable main jets... Turn the screws counter clockwise and check those plugs. Just be careful! Also, Mercs had their fair share of stator issues. There might be a faulty stator (high speed circuit) sounds like your low speed is fine. Merc advertises their 440 F/A's at 65 hp and their 76' 340 liquids at 65 hp. Kevin with popatop racing has dynoed stock 76' 340 S/T's at low to mid 70's. Those liquids seem to be pushing out higher ratings than their advertised rating. I believe the 440 liquids are in the mid 80's. Look at the numbers.....
75' F/A S/T 440 65 H.P. (365 lbs)
76' Liquid 340/440 73 H.P/85 H.P (330 lbs)
78-81 Invader 440 65-68 H.P (390-400lbs)
.... then you have your gearing. Now you can understand why those Liquid S/T's are tough to beat.
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Here is some info from the parts interchange post (http://kawasakitrax.com/kawiforum/index.php?topic=11.0):
Renumbered Kawasaki Parts that are still available from a dealer:
Bushing 25x28x30 old pn# 92028-3004, new pn# 92028-1514
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If your buddy is running the original Mikuni "adjustable main jets (bowls)" might want to check the main jet adjustment. The Free Air motors are finiky and I suspect he might be running rich on top. I never liked those adjustable main jets... Turn the screws counter clockwise and check those plugs. Just be careful! Also, Mercs had their fair share of stator issues. There might be a faulty stator (high speed circuit) sounds like your low speed is fine. Merc advertises their 440 F/A's at 65 hp and their 76' 340 liquids at 65 hp. Kevin with popatop racing has dynoed stock 76' 340 S/T's at low to mid 70's. Those liquids seem to be pushing out higher ratings than their advertised rating. I believe the 440 liquids are in the mid 80's. Look at the numbers.....
75' F/A S/T 440 65 H.P. (365 lbs)
76' Liquid 340/440 73 H.P/85 H.P (330 lbs)
78-81 Invader 440 65-68 H.P (390-400lbs)
.... then you have your gearing. Now you can understand why those Liquid S/T's are tough to beat.
How is the 440 liquid 35 lbs lighter than the F/A? It seems to good to be true... Did they have a different chassis?
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76 twisters were a different chassis than 75....merc caught everbody with their pants down in 76...great year to be a dealer, then in 77 no sleds, wtf? :o
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...76' Twisters run factory aluminum skis... 102" skid/track cleated, small gas tank, no gauges except tach, etc. It doesn't take many lightweight parts to add up to 35 lb weight savings. Just throw a set of factory steel skis from a 75' F/A on the scale and compare the weight to the 76' shortie aluminum... you're gonna loose at least 10 lbs right there. The 76' 340 liquid I play with will just about rip your arms off out of the hole... you better be holding on and leaning over the front. Many of the 76' S/T's have rear tunnel damage from big holeshots and limited stud clearance.
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Sorry guys... I didn't mean to get off subject.
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Yes, losing 35 lbs by using light weight/ smaller parts isn't too difficult...What impresses me is losing 35 lbs AND switching from FA to liquid. :)
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Ya, I agree. I don't think the liquid motor weighs much (even with the radiator) compared to the Kawis. BUT... Mercs don't run heat exchangers and all the tubes/hoses, also no oil inj. Just a radiator-that's it. There were soo many companies in the 70's and early 80's with huge potential if they would have just stayed in the game! Can you imagine what companies like Merc and Kawasaki would be building if they were still around... at the very least you and I might have owned a shark before they got dismantled!
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I have 75 340 Sno Twister and it is a blast to ride- seating position is best of all my vintage, it has the best access to carbs or anything , very easy to work on, the aluminum drive shaft is too weak and they twist at the sprocket spline, have a new one to install this summer
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How do I correct the upsidedown picture?
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How do I correct the upsidedown picture?
Edit the post by removing the picture and put one in that is right side up.
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remember the 76 was a race only sled,motor and steering 2 in offset,steering under the bellypan,small radiator because short run time racing and plenty of airflow when you're kick
ing azz
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Yep... and if you don't convert the offset oval bars to drag bars, you find yourself in a world of trouble when the front end comes back down. The skis are pointing left and the bars are heading straight!
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jumpier than an interceptor...and thats saying something