KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: booblover on January 01, 2014, 06:14:15 PM
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Just finished removing my hyfax from my skid. Hit my shin and my hand with the hammer. Felt awesome. I have not been able to find a source for my rear shock. Anyone out there know a part number, a cross reference, or where I can find one?
I also found that the aluminum rails were cracked at the beginning of the curve at the front of the skid. Is this common? Should I worry about it and get it fixed?
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Got 2 gas shocks for my vari-rides, 1 on 81 LTD and 1 on 81 Invader. Call Bob at Image. 715-479-7427.
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Kimpex 04-269 is a real nice gas shock.
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Going to order the shocks and sliders from image. I have more questions. I pulled my drive shaft to shim the outer idlers in order to put a new style track in. I have read on this site that 1/8" is all that is required. In reality, the space is about 3/4". Also, the locking collars on both ends of the shaft were broken. Not sure if the collars will fit with the idlers spaced that far out. Also, I found where my vibration was coming from. Bad bearing on clutch side. What is my best bet for finding that bearing. Image?
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should be a common bearing.....put many a hose clamp on to locate those collars...
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found the bearing. it is a common part. got it at the local auto parts store. I paid $13 for it. I could have ordered one for 5 plus shipping, but it was worth the extra few bucks to have it right away. plus, it is a Federal-Mogul bearing with steel seals, so I know it is good.
Are tracks directional? I have not given the new one a good for look for arrows yet, but if I could run it opposite the direction it has been worn in, I figure it will grip better.
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The stock saw tooth tracks are directional. They are installed so they'll grip better when stopping. However, I've heard of others reversing them, but I don't recommend this.
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ill just run it in the direction of the arrow. As expected, I have found an issue with spacing the outer idlers on the driveshaft as far out as they need to go. I do not have enough room to slide the shaft towards the clutch so I can get the splined end in the chaincase. I have read that some people just remove the outer idlers. I feel like this will put a lot of stress on the shaft and bearings. I have also read that people only space the idlers 1/8". Mine needed 11/16" to clear the outer lugs on my track. Is this just the track that I am using? Its seems as though any track with outer drive lugs would be the same. Any suggestions? Gixxer6, I read that you were able to space the idlers on the drive shaft, and not remove them. did you remove your chaincase to slide it through?
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OK. I pulled my chaincase so I could re-install the driveshaft with both idler wheels on it. I figured I would clean it up and inspect the seals while it was apart. The bearings both seem ok, but it would be nice to change them all out while it is apart. I am placing an order for parts this week, but I cannot seem to find any of the chaincase bearings or seals. I have been having the worst time finding parts lately. Anyone have part numbers for these parts?
Oh yah one more question. Can either side of the chain tensioner pads be used. Mine are a little worn on one side, but the other side looks like it is the same shape, and it is no worn. I could spin them and they would be brand new again.
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ill just run it in the direction of the arrow. As expected, I have found an issue with spacing the outer idlers on the driveshaft as far out as they need to go. I do not have enough room to slide the shaft towards the clutch so I can get the splined end in the chaincase. I have read that some people just remove the outer idlers. I feel like this will put a lot of stress on the shaft and bearings. I have also read that people only space the idlers 1/8". Mine needed 11/16" to clear the outer lugs on my track. Is this just the track that I am using? Its seems as though any track with outer drive lugs would be the same. Any suggestions? Gixxer6, I read that you were able to space the idlers on the drive shaft, and not remove them. did you remove your chaincase to slide it through?
It's been a few years since I did this. I don't recall. I know I had the chain case off while restoring the sled, but I'm not sure if I had it off while installing the drive axle.
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I took the bearings and seal from my 4/6 chain case to our Napa store and he had them in stock. He measured them, found them in the book and as luck would have it he had them.
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you weren't able to let the idler loose on the shaft till you had it in then locate it before suspension install? you can flip the tension blocks over,no prpblem.
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I guess if I had used locking collars on both sides of the idler that would have worked fine. I actually just cut new bigger spacers, similar to the ones that were there. I figured that they helped to keep the cogs where they were, seeing how everything was clamped together on each end with those aluminum lock collars.
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i understand and you are correct....i do see a lot of collars break, anybody found anything better?
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On my Invader, I replaced them with stronger steel collars that I picked up from my local bearing/seal shop. Both clamps are loose on the 4/6 that I am working on. Not having to pull the drive axle yet, I installed hose clamps on the outside of the broken clamps. I'm not sure if it will hold. I haven't had it running yet to try it...
I did think about trying a small muffler clamp, the kind with a u-bolt. But I haven't tried it.
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the hose clamp will be fine...i wonder if it may cause a vibration on top end though
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the hose clamp will be fine...i wonder if it may cause a vibration on top end though
Probably no more vibration than the stock aluminum clamp with a steel bolt in it...
Have you used hose clamps with success?
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I tried the hose clamp. It held, but I have not run the sled, so I know of no impacts yet. I can say that the clamps were definitely broken when I pulled the drive shaft, and I rode it like that for the first two years I owned it. I did have a vibration starting at about 60 mph, but I attributed that to the bad clutch side bearing on the driveshaft. Never know, could have been a part of the problem.
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a decent hose clamp will work fine,done it many times back in the day.....i sometimes think the goodyear tracks vibrate more,my 81 vader has a nasty shake at about 75, bearings and drive line are good,runs and rides well.....i take it as gods way of telling me, 'hey, you old dipshiz, slow down' 8)
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My other 81 invader never vibrated, even when the speedo said 80. I know for a fact that my clutch side jackshaft bearing is junk too, so it is very odd.
I am just now realizing that when I removed my chaincase, the mounting holes were slotted. If I make sure that my jackshaft is perfectly aligned, is there anything I have to worry about with the driveshaft? Also, is it as simple as taking measurements off of the tunnel for aligning the jackshaft? Am I also correct to assume that I will need to check alignment on my clutches once the jackshaft is straight?
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I found another source of the vibration. The jackshft pillow bearing was installed incorrectly, and the lock collar was just jammed on. It wore the bearing crooked and caused it to wobble.
I ordered a gas shock from image. It doesnt come with any bushings, and the stock ones are too small. What are people using in place of stock bushings for these replacement shocks?
Also, I am going to post all of the federal mogul/moog part numbers for the bearings and seals i bought for my chaincase on the parts interchange thread. These were nice bearings, and I got them all at my local parts store.
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FINALLY DONE. I got the wrong shock from image, and he quick shipped me the right one. I cannot believe this sled. In the 5 years I have owned Kawasaki invaders, this is the first one I have ever fixed the suspension in. That, along with the 1" track, and WOW. I built a manometer and balanced the carbs. This sled hangs skis for over 100'. I guess a little hard work and a lot of frustration is definitely worth it in the end. I tip the scales at about 250, and it seems perfect with all four springs at the middle setting. I would have to agree that the 1" track is the best thing I have ever done to any Invader.
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what sled did the i in track come off of?
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It came off of a Polaris XC SP 800 with an edge chassis. The track was not even in the greatest shape, but it is 10 times better than the original stock track. For $35 I am not going to complain about some missing lugs.
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I know what you mean about the 1" track... I installed a 1" Camoplast Hacksaw track on my 81' Invader, by far the best mod for a Kawi!
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so pretty much any indy 121 in track?
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Any 121x15x2.52 will work. Except most newer tracks have extra internal drive lugs outside the windows that interfere with some of the idler wheels on the kawi skids. This requires you getting creative and spacing these wheels to avoid the drive nubs. It's not real simple, but IMO its definitely worth doing.
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Yup, it fit right in, with the exception of the idlers on the drive shaft, and the two outer sets of bogie wheels on the skid.
LESSON LEARNED- It is necessary to remove the chaincase in order to re-install the driveshaft once you space the idler wheels out. There is not enough room to slide the shaft into the bearing cup hole when the wheel is spaced outward. Once I removed the chaincase, I slid the driveshaft in chaincase side first, put the clutch side bearing in/bolted the bearing cup to the tunnel, I slid the chaincase over the driveshaft and jackshaft, and I bolted the chaincase in. Otherwise it was a pieceof cake.
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my biggest concern was the spacing of the windows/clips...indy track it is :D