Invader #2

[JDmatt]

I've added another Invader to my shop, after deciding that the 1980 440 I bought early this year is too rusted out to resurrect.  This one is a 1978 440.  It was literally on my way home from work.  That makes two Invaders I've bought within 15 minutes of home. 

It's in decent condition and complete, definitely vintage rider material, and maybe even show ready after it gets polished up.  It runs, but the previous owner informed me that there were no brakes.  Looking in, it looked like the brake pads were gone.  I figured they were worn down. 

Today I went to putting new brake pads in.  After unbolting the radiator and removing the oil tank to gain access, I found that the disk was actually bent, and someone had completely removed the brake pads.  I can't figure out how this would have happened, but it did.  So off came the chaincase cover, and secondary so I could remove the jackshaft and replace the disc with one from the parted out Invader.  The jackshaft bearing needed to be replaced too anyway. 

That's as far as I got today.  I did not get any photos of the sled yet, that will have to wait until it's back outside.   Here is one I tried to take of the brake disk.

[mswyka]

I am beginning to think that all these selds would be in pretty good shape if it weren't for the previous owners

[Interceptor398]

I have run into a couple sleds that need a better brake disk.  I try to keep a couple good ones just because they can fail.

[JDmatt]

I got everything buttoned up today on the brake & jackshaft.  Set the clutch distance and offset.  Also replaced some old fuel line and filters while I was in there.  Did some cleaning on the exterior.

The skis have a ton of play on the spindle - do you guys have a source and P/N for the pivot bushings in the spindle? 

[Joel]

The part # is 42036-3504 for the spindle sleeve. 92028-3503 brass or the update 92028-3509 steel for the spindle bushings. Joel

[kawhead]

early sleds had that thinner disc,warpage was common.....i see some sleds with a lot of play in the spline on the spindal top,may want to check that too

[JDmatt]

Thanks for the tip on the splines.

That looks to be the Kawasaki P/N correct?  Is there a current source? 

[gixxer6]

Yes, those are Kawasaki part numbers.  Which part do you need?  #1 or #3?

[JDmatt]

#3.

[JDmatt]

Got it out of the shop today, and I may try and run it in a Triathlon in NY next weekend.  The steering is still sloppy but it should be good enough to goof around with. 

[mswyka]

Got it out of the shop today, and I may try and run it in a Triathlon in NY next weekend.  The steering is still sloppy but it should be good enough to goof around with.

Matt, on the 78s and 79s some of the slop is in the lower steering shaft bushing.

[JDmatt]

I'm a little behind on this, but I did take it to the Triathalon. 

Unfortunately, it didn't make it.  I completed the cross-country and slalom and was on the 2nd lap of 2 on the oval when it died going into turn 3.  Lost compression on the mag side. 

I pulled the heads after I got it back in the shop, and the pistons & rings look fine.  Head gaskets not blown, but it must not be holding tight as I torqued the head back on, and it still only had 50 lbs of compression.  It will get a rebuild later this year.  I still need to address the loose skis & steering, and then maybe put a plastic ski conversion on it.  The snow up there was very thin and sloppy, so that combined with my steering meant the sled pretty much wouldn't turn at all. 

To finish off the weekend, the axle busted off my trailer on the way home.  Had to get it picked up with a rollback and delivered to a trailer shop Monday morning. 

[kawhead]

mag side seized....bad crank seal?

[JDmatt]

The good news is nothing seized, nothing looks damaged on the piston or rings.  I also pulled the exhaust manifold to peek in.  It just lost compression. 

[jimvw57]

I keep saying this... crank seals good or bad will not have any effect on compression. Once the piston is past the intake port, it is all up to the piston, rings, cylinder, head and gasket to make the compression.

Crank seals only affect the air/fuel mix. Too much air and the cylinder will run hot which is what melts pistons and such.  Or too much air and it won't start.

I'd look at cylinder wear, or possibly stretched  cylinder studs. The acorn type nuts on the top can bottom out when they are torqued down and make you think the head is tight when it is not. Add a washer or two under them, or replace the studs.