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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: whitley1983 on October 26, 2020, 11:50:39 PM

Title: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 26, 2020, 11:50:39 PM
I've got a 1978 Invader 440 that I picked up last winter, it runs fine and I'm about to tear into it to replace the crank seals. I just ordered the full gasket kit with crank seals and also ordered new carb flanges. Besides the crank seals is there anything else I should just go ahead and replace while I have the motor pulled out of it?
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 27, 2020, 08:34:17 AM
Grease the lower bushing on the steering stem.  And I recommend rebuilding the fuel pump if it hasn't already been done. 
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 27, 2020, 08:35:22 AM
I always rebuild the recoil on any Kawasaki that I work on. 
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 27, 2020, 02:12:15 PM
Hey man thanks for the advice, how do you rebuild the fuel pump? I noticed on DK they don't sell new fuel pumps for them.
-Jake
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Interceptor398 on October 27, 2020, 08:16:25 PM
Might be a few fuel pump rebuild kits floating around on Ebay yet?
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 28, 2020, 12:36:10 AM
What all is needed to rebuild the fuel pump? Just started reading it down tonight, didn’t realize I’d have to pull the clutch to pull the motor so now I have to wait for my DK order to come in to go any further. Also it’s so crazy to me how thy designed this sled, the way the chaincase is on the opposite side of the clutches, that’s so far for the power to travel from engine to track.
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 28, 2020, 01:16:46 AM
Also, does anyone have any tips for me about doing this year down? Like things to do or not to do? The 440 drifter was the first sled I completely tore down and rebuilt but it was pretty simple, fan cooled and no oil injection so any guidance would be appreciated.
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 28, 2020, 01:31:47 PM
Also, does anyone have any tips for me about doing this year down? Like things to do or not to do? The 440 drifter was the first sled I completely tore down and rebuilt but it was pretty simple, fan cooled and no oil injection so any guidance would be appreciated.

See here:  http://kawasakitrax.com/kawiforum/index.php?topic=7.0
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 28, 2020, 01:36:10 PM
What all is needed to rebuild the fuel pump? Just started reading it down tonight, didn’t realize I’d have to pull the clutch to pull the motor so now I have to wait for my DK order to come in to go any further. Also it’s so crazy to me how thy designed this sled, the way the chaincase is on the opposite side of the clutches, that’s so far for the power to travel from engine to track.

What sleds are you used to???  The vast majority of modern sleds use a jackshaft and have the chain case on the opposite side of the clutches... 

I used to buy my fuel pump rebuild kits on ebay as Interceptor398 said.  But be careful, there is one spot on one of the gaskets that they forgot to punch a hole in.  So compare the old gaskets to the new ones and make sure you punch that hole, it's necessary. 

If you can't find the fuel pump kit, let me know I think I have a few extra that I could sell. 
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Rollingmenace on October 28, 2020, 06:33:32 PM
Agree with the guys above.. eBay is a great source for the rebuild kits, heck you can buy complete pumps on there as well and they are not to expensive..
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Interceptor398 on October 29, 2020, 07:52:39 AM
http://kawasakitrax.com/kawiforum/index.php?topic=1908.0
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 29, 2020, 10:16:38 AM
Thanks for all the input, so on Ebay I did find someone selling a fuel pump with a new gasket set, I couldn't find the rebuild kit, so my question is what all is needed to rebuild the fuel pump, is it just the gaskets that need to be replaced or are there other troublesome parts that need to be replaced?
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Interceptor398 on October 29, 2020, 07:05:06 PM
Pretty sure I have an extra kit if you are interested. $10.00 + shipping.
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 30, 2020, 01:27:22 PM
Agree with the guys above.. eBay is a great source for the rebuild kits, heck you can buy complete pumps on there as well and they are not to expensive..

Careful, they don't sell new complete pumps that are the tall version used on Kaws...You can use the short version, but must install a fuel shutoff. 
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Boomologist on October 30, 2020, 04:53:03 PM
Fuel shutoff is very important even with the right kit. If the little valve in the pump fails to shutoff fuel for simplest reasons you run the risk of a severely flooded crankcase. Could result in hydro-lock or worse, a fire. I installed fuel shutoff's on every sled I have owned. It also makes it nice to shut fuel off and let engine run out of fuel if it's going to set for a long time. Carbs won't gum up. And if you do have a fuel leak for some reason you can simply just shut it off.
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: whitley1983 on October 31, 2020, 12:54:03 PM
So if I rebuild the original fuel pump you suggest that I also install a fuel shutoff? Is this just a manual shutoff valve inline from the fuel tank or something else?
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: gixxer6 on October 31, 2020, 02:25:18 PM
IMO, using the original fuel pump a fuel shutoff is not needed (the Kawasaki engineers agreed with me).  Just make sure your needles and seats are in good shape and the fuel pump is rebuilt and you’ll be fine. 
Title: Re: 1978 Invader
Post by: Boomologist on November 01, 2020, 06:29:06 AM
Yes, just a simple shutoff between the tank and pump. NAPA has them. Last ones I purchased were less than $10. You'll discover how nice they are when you need to pull your fuel pump and the tank has gas in it. A fuel shutoff is also a safety device. I run tube to a convenient place to mount the valve, then run tube back to the pump. Usually my valves are mounted somewhere on the dash.