Hello from SE Indiana

[jimvw57]

Block open the throttle, and pull it over until the gauge doesn't go any higher. 130 is pretty good number, I'd say to replace the seals and let it go at that.

[gixxer6]

Did a compression check and got 130 on each cylinder giving it a pull

130psi is a good sign.  I'd pull the motor apart, install the new seals, look everything over close, then reassemble. 

[sacky07]

Well that's good to hear. what products do I use to lube crank seals and what  product to I use to seal case? Now I just wait on clutch puller tool, to get here and when it does I'll let the cussing begin.

[sacky07]

Got the clutch off tonigt and got everything un hooked rxcept for onescrew olding on the ignition box. Gonna have to walk away for tonight before i star breakin shit. Heres some pics
What should i do about the oil pump cable? And what is the speedo cable hooked too? Is that a grade 8 im missing in suspension? Anything look wrong with pully grooves on clutch? Nothing moves

[gixxer6]

The oil injection cable will need to be replaced. 

Yes, you are missing a suspension bolt, grade 8 is a good idea. 

I wouldn't worry about the grooves in the outer case of the clutch, but the face of the sheaves where the belt rides needs to be cleaned up.  I use a scotch brite pad when they look that bad.  It also appears as though the clutch is stuck.  I would disassemble it, and give it a good cleaning removing all the rust and corrosion.  Make sure that everything moves freely, then reassemble (do NOT use any kind of lubricant in the clutches). 

On a 79' the speedo cable connects to the drive axle on the clutch side, just below the secondary clutch.  I have seen many of the flanges that the cable/adapter attaches to break... 

I use permatex 51813 on the crankcase, this is what Image Enterprises uses on crankcases.  I purchased a tube from them years ago, and have used it on several crankcases without an issue.  However, as Jim said earlier, any good sealant that is rated for gas immersion will work. 

[sacky07]

the oil system was removed on this sled. one of the nozzles was missing and I think that's what was causing my surging idle. im still going to do the crank seals though. where can I get the nozzle and the fittings? I already have the oil tank. what happens when the oil pump is not hooked up? Should I replace it or take the gamble of having to pull motor again??

[gixxer6]

Are you talking about the banjo, or the bolt?  The banjo can be had at your local Polaris dealer: 

"Oil system Banjo: Same as Banjo for the 86 Polaris Indy 400. Polaris Part # 3083894"

I'm not sure about the bolt.  Maybe it is the same as the Polaris bolt?  The part# for the bolt is 92062-503.  There are a few NOS ones on ebay:  http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=kawasaki+snowmobile+nozzle&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC1.A0.X92062-503&_nkw=92062-503&_sacat=0

I find that the shaft seal in the oil pumps tend to go bad and leak.  I always fill the pump with oil on the bench before installing to test for leaks.  There is a procedure in the manual for an output test, I recommend doing the test. 

[jimvw57]

You can find a replacement throttle cable that will include the oil cable, last one I got was from Dennis Kirk. They aren't listed in the catalogs but if you call them, they can get you one.

[sacky07]

I know about the oil pump test but can not perform it with my surging idle. doesn't manual say to hold a certain rpm's for a certain minute? where are the areas of injection? I saw the two on the intakes.

[gixxer6]

Just the two on an Intruder. 

[sacky07]

What size fuel oil and vacuum lines will I need to re do the whole sled?

[jimvw57]

fuel lines use 7/32. If you try to use the 1/4, they will leak unless you use clamps.

[sacky07]

Im having trouble getting the flywheel off. Im following the manual. Can I use heat? Not sure what else to do.

[gixxer6]

http://kawasakitrax.com/kawiforum/index.php?topic=9.0

[jimvw57]

DO NOT USE HEAT!!!! It will melt the coils behind the flywheel and mess up the magnets in the flywheel.

There are a few methods that have worked, 1) use an impact air gun, 2) tighten the puller and let it set overnight, 3) tighten the puller and give it a good hard hit with a large hammer on the end of the center shaft,

Make sure your using Grade 8 bolts into the flywheel as lighter bolts will break, be sure they are threaded in deep enough so the threads don't strip out, Not too deep as you could damage the coils underneath.

The hammer method seems to work the best for me.I had one that was so bad I thought I was going to break the flywheel. just about then, it popped apart and I went flying. Make sure you have a place to land when it comes apart.



** as gixxer6 said above... **