primers

[booblover]

Has anyone found a decent primer that actually lasts longer than half a season.  The ones I keep buying suck.

[jimvw57]

seems to be the nature of the beast. If you can stay away from ethanol gas, that will help. Or use  gas/oil mix, that might help too. I have loosened up a few using WD-40 but they don't last long.  I wish someone would make them with silicone seals. That would probably help. Or at least one you could take apart and clean out / change the seals.

[gixxer6]

I've got one on my 99' SkiDoo that is the original.  Maybe try going to a Doo dealer and picking up an OEM skidoo primer? 

[Winter Thunder]

I just disconnect the primer and run a tube from one primer port to the other on the carbs. 

[booblover]

I just disconnect the primer and run an tube from one primer port to the other on the carbs.

That gives me a good idea. I might try cutting a shut off valve into the primer circuit.  Once I prime it and fire it up, I can just shut the valve and isolate the crappy primer. I have gone through 2 ski-doo primers, as luck would have it.

[Winter Thunder]

Just use the choke

[mswyka]

The corollary to this conundrum may be "where can we buy primers inexpensively"  Buying primer kits at $20 something a pop can add up quickly.  There has to be a place that we can get them more affordably.  They really can't cost more than a dollar or two to make.

Or, perhaps almost as good - a primer that we can take apart and rebuild if necessary.

[jimvw57]

The 'choke' or more correctly called 'enrichners' will work if there is fuel in the carb. If the carbs are empty , it is possible they will not start as the fuel will not flow on sleds with the taller Invader style fuel pump unless the motor supplies a vacuum to the pump.

 These are the pumps with the anti-siphon valve built onto them and keep the Invaders and Intruders from flooding out when the motor is not running, This can happen because the motor sits at or below the level of the fuel tank and it can siphon the fuel into the carb, which if the needle and seat are worn or dirty can allow fuel to flow into the motor and flood the motor, and exhaust pipes until the tank is empty.

Once this happens, you get all sorts of problems from exploding mufflers, to plugged mufflers, soaked spark plugs that won't fire,torn crank seals (no lubrication), corroded carb boots, and out of gas.

The primer bypasses the fuel pump (and anti-siphon valve) to shoot fuel directly into the intake allowing the motor to start, generate the needed vacuum and fill the carbs with fuel.

[Interceptor398]

A drop of gun oil or the like on the primer shaft from time to time will help keep them alive but they are still a week link in the system.  Let the sled run at idle and check the primer lines for moving air bubbles.  If you see moving air bubbles get a new pump or on a couple sleds I have cut the line to the primer and put a snug fitting pin in the cut spot to disable it and just use the enricher.  Might need to pull it over a couple more times when it's cold but over all many less problems.

[Lloyd (ljm)]

Some where I read a detailed explanation of how to take a primer apart and rebuild it. In fact I think I did one, wasn't hard.
 I can't think right now where that was.

 I will look for it.

 I've often thought that instead of looking for cheaper primers, I should look for more expensive ones that would last longer.

Lloyd

[booblover]

I would pay $100 dollars for one if it would last.
I found an inline fuel shutoff valve for a lawnmower that I'm going to try to mount downstream of the primer. now the primer can leak all it wants.

[jimvw57]

Every primer i have seen in the last few years have been crimped together. Makes them hard to get apart and back together.  But I'd give it a try!
I leave one hose going to the carb long enough to disconnect it and stick it on the other carb. easy way to bypass a leaking primer on the trail.

[mswyka]

Yes, I agree.  Tried to disassemble and only managed to destroy.  Someone at the factory does not want these babies coming apart.

[booblover]

OK. I think I have a better idea. Best one yet. McMaster-Carr p/n 7933k26 or 7757k11. They are both barbed check valves. It would be completely automatic. No valve to remember. Just cut it in, prime, start, and forget about it. The vacuum would seat the ball and cut off any leakage from the damn primer, removing the weak link from the equation.