KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => Kawasaki Owners => Topic started by: 79Intruder on December 06, 2012, 05:18:09 PM
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Well here is my story. I got my Kawasaki Intruder 440 about six years ago. I got it running after I replaced the gaskets, But just when I got all excited to hear it run The recoil broke. It stopped the engine really quick. So from then on I decided that I was going to rebuild it. Here i am 5 years later, and still trying to get it done. Keep running into that out of money thing. I am hoping to have it done in two years. That will be my goal.
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I hear ya. I have a JD 600 that I started restoring like 8 years ago, and just keep putting it on the back-burner. Funny thing is it's almost done, but on the back-burner at the moment 8)
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Well here is my story. I got my Kawasaki Intruder 440 about six years ago. I got it running after I replaced the gaskets, But just when I got all excited to hear it run The recoil broke. It stopped the engine really quick. So from then on I decided that I was going to rebuild it. Here i am 5 years later, and still trying to get it done. Keep running into that out of money thing. I am hoping to have it done in two years. That will be my goal.
Welcome to the site!! we can walk you thru it if needed.
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Well it's going to be fun to do. I just wish I did not have to save the engine for the last thing. The rest of the sled is going along nice. I know that I need a new crankshaft. I think it has water damage. Now It will not turn at all, But I did get to hear her run even if it was for a few minutes. I will try and get up some pics after Christmas.
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Where are you located? maybe someone can help out with parts...
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I live in N.H. , But I have no money right now... I have parts to trade they are for Yamaha.
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What makes you think it has water damage?
Have you taken the recoil off?
Lloyd
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I have revived motors using Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders when they won't turn over (used on a few motorcycles ) mostly from sitting without running for a few years. add the oil, let it sit for a day, then work the crankshaft back and forth until it frees up. This won't work on a broken ring or other catastrophic failure.
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Yes I took off the recoil. I have the engine striped down as far as I can get it. The arms have rust on them, so does the crank. The person that I bought it off from said it had water in it before. But that he took care of it. What I would love to do is to spit the case and see more of the crank. I do not have the puller to take the hub off. I also can't find the same engine anywhere. Do you know where I could get a puller or to rent one? Thanks.
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If you don't want to take it apart, don't have the time and tools, I would pickle it...
fill it will diesel fuel and maybe a bit of 2 stroke oil...
Fill the crank case and also little down the plug holes, and after a day of sitting (don't turn over with plugs in) with the plugs out gently tap down on the highest piston with a dowel...
Once she frees up pour another ounce of oil 2 or 4 stroke in each cylinder and rotate it several times, then put a line on the crank case breather into a bucket and purge the engine of the pickling juice by rotating it... A drill could be used on the clutch, if you rotate it a ton you may want to use a bit more oil in the plug holes... once it no longer has any diesel left, re introduce some 2 stroke mix gas in the case and purge then repeat 2 or 3 times to get all the diesel out...
Then start...
I have done this to motors that ran for many hours after, I also have done this to motors that didn't run ten minutes... It's all in what damage has been done...
It is by far a better idea to dissasemble the motor and inspect everything...
Remember you can go further on snow using a snowmobile in 30 minutes then you can walk in a day!
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ATF and gas mix also works but I have never used it, it maybe better then diesel because you wouldn't have to make sure it's all out!
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A little rust on the crank and connecting rods is no huge deal just take it off with a non agressive wire wheel and make sure no debris gets into the bearings, to take it off the crank you will need to get a flywheel puller... They can be very stubborn, and I recommed a tiny bit fo anti sieze on it when reassembling... Some places do loan out tools here in canada, canadian tire and some parts stores not sure about states side tho...
Rust in the cylinders or bearings is a big deal and they will need to be replaced or in the case of cylinders re plated or if it's very light maybe maybe get away with a light hone....
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The clutch puller is not too expensive, and worth the investment. Denniskirk.com has them as will most parts places that handle snowmobile parts.
The flywheel takes a puller made for flywheels, Vibration dampeners, or steering wheels. A heavy duty one is a good idea, and make sure you use grade 8 bolts that thread into the flywheel.
Flywheels are extremely tough to get off sometimes.
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Thanks. I will try a puller that I can rent first. I bought one last year. It was a universal. Right right now I am getting the steering assembly off. I am having trouble getting one of the bolts off. The one that near the bottom u arm. I don't seem to have the right size wrench. Got one out with no problem. I have been socking it in wd40. I hope this will help. I don't have heat to put to it, And with the rubber being right there too. I can't cut it off ether can't get to the other side of it. Well if that is my biggest problem with it i'll be happy.
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ATF and gas mix also works but I have never used it, it maybe better then diesel because you wouldn't have to make sure it's all out!
I'm curious Why would you need to get all the diesel fuel out?
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fouls the plugs..
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Honestly it should mix with the fuel mixture fine and burn off the remaining diesel fuel! Just get out what you can!
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The fuel going into the crankcase is already atomized and mixed with air and oil. adding any additional fuel after the carbs will only over- richen the mixture, and diesel fuel (which is a bit oily) will foul the plugs.
The exact opposite of an vacuum leak in the crankcase or carb boots.
Extra air will make the combustion chamber hotter -melting pistons and such. Extra fuel will make it colder, less likely to burn and put deposits on the plugs.
Clean out as much as you can and run it, be prepared for a new set of plugs or two.
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Totally agree!