As usual, Checkmarks and gixxer6's comments are dead on the money, IMHO.
I must re-tell a story about my frustrations with the dreaded bog I experienced 35 years ago when I first owned my Invader.
I thought I had everything dialed in perfectly, but could not get rid of an initial bog from a standing start. I went back thru the carbs several times....convinced I was missing something.
It wasn't until I received one of the snowmobile magazines in the mail, with an article on clutching, that the problem was revealed to me.
Kawasaki's shop manual specifies a 12" center to center distance for the clutches....I had them set to precisely that distance. I was using a nearly new Dayco Max 1078 drive belt...which was the correct belt.
After reading the clutch article, which also discussed belt deflection, I was amazed when I pushed down on the mid-way point of the drive belt and could push it down to where it almost made contact with the bottom of the belt.
I went thru the process of moving the jackshaft back until I had about 1 1/4" deflection with about 8 lbs of downward force on the belt mid-way between the clutches.
If you don't have a scale, I use the analogy of using the same amount of force as holding a gallon jug of milk.
This made all the difference in the world....my Invader would now launch from a standing start with some authority.
I no longer care, or pay attention to anything relating to center to center distance.....drive belts vary slightly in length when new. Moving the jackshaft even 1/8" inch backwards is like shortening the belt 1/4"
The Kawasaki K-line chassis are different than most. You can't loosen the engine mount bolts and scoot the engine fore or aft. You have to loosen the chaincase mounting bolts slightly, and the bearing carrier bolts behind the secondary clutch, and move the jackshaft equally backwards to get the belt deflection dialed in.
As you move the jackshaft fore and aft, its distance from the tunnel changes....which may require you to change the shims under the bearing carrier on the clutch end of the jackshaft.
IF...this is part of the problem causing your bog, I would get the jackshaft moved back and run the sled with the limited time we have left this winter.
True enough...you would want to get that bearing carrier shimmed properly so that the jackshaft sits dead centered between the bearings at each end, ..but you can run it with a slight misalignment for awhile...
Go push down at the center of your drive belt and see how it acts...