KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: nickw on December 28, 2012, 10:33:14 AM
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Hey guys, new to this forum. Just picked up an '80 Invader 440 and noticed the jackshaft bearing right behind the secondary is shot. Does anyone have any advice on where I could find a replacement?
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Reading off of one that I have on the shelf it is SA 206-19. Should be available from any auto parts store.
As one who learned the hard way about Invaders, if you don't know the history pull it apart and change the crank seals, clean the carbs and change the jets, and make sure the carb mount boots are in good shape and sealed tight to the inlet.
Good luck, you will enjoy the sled once you get her going.
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Excellent thanks. Yea I got the full engine gasket kit for it. Been doing some reading up on it. I know to definitely go with the mikuni boots. What should be done with the carb jets? Also the air box is missing so I was going to go with the universal filters for the carbs.
Also, noticed some of the coolant lines are soft/ seem to be deteriorating. Was thinking about using some reinforced clear plastic line from the hardware store. Is this a bad idea?
And are there any aftermarket clutch spring/weights for the kawasaki clutchs?
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Yes, use the Mikuni boots if you can get them. I have to defer to others on different hoses and clutch set-ups. We try to keep everything stock.
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I'd stay away from the clear coolant hoses as most of those are not rated for temperatures, Get it going first and see how it works before messing with replacing weights and such. The Factory did a mighty fine job of making these sleds scream.
First thing to do is to take a compression test. Then you will know what you have to work with. The fuel lines, you want to get some low temp fuel line hoses, either blue or light pink are the best, make sure you get 7/32 hoses and not the 1/4.
Then take the time to find the correct air box. The universal filters allow too much air and it will perform like crap without re-jetting the carbs. Even then, the filters will tend to ice up in the snow.
and like we always say.... crank seals crank seals crank seals!!!
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I'll see what I can come up with for the air box. As far as fuel line goes I ordered 3/16th and 1/4 superthane tubing. Heard that stuff works great. I appreciate the help!
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JDMatt at newbreedparts.com has the Mikuni carb boots
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3/16 might be a touch small, but better than being too big. You might have to warm it up to get it to go on, just don't use an open flame around gasoline.
If you use 1/4 it tends to leak air and gas can leak out too. I believe the only place 1/4 is used is from the tank to the fuel pump, and from the oil tank to the pump. - maybe on the gauges too-
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Well it looks like I'll be needing a jackshaft as well, the bearing chewed a nice groove in the old one. Also, the correct jackshaft bearing is a SA205-16, not a 206-19.
Looks like the ski shocks are junk. Would I notice much of a difference if I just ran without them?
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looking at the geometry of the shocks and springs, I doubt you would notice much difference if they were there or not.
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My apology for the bearing number. If you need a shaft we may have a spare here in the barn. Most of my ski shocks are junk too. But rather than take them off completely we pull them off, polish off the old paint and rust with a wire wheel and then give them a new coat of black paint. I am sure that the ride is a little rougher than it would be with good shocks, but the sled at least looks close to stock. I will see if I can attach a photo.
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Looks like I'll be needing to replace the lower coolant hose. Will the one on jdmatt's site work?
http://newbreedparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50 (http://newbreedparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50)
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unfortunately not. Liquifire's and Invaders have different cooling systems
Lloyd
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I bet we have a lower hose somewhere in our hose collection. I will need a few days to check.
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Trying to make some progress tonight on the invader.
First question: the carbs are really nasty. When I pulled them apart some, by my estimates, 10 y/o gas came out. Floats would hardly move, one of the needle/seats is froze open, etc. I went out and got that berryman chem dip stuff and it says remove the plastic from the carbs. Do i have to pull the overflow elbows and that other plastic elbow from the upper halves of the carbs or am I fine leaving them on? If they need to come off, do they screw off?
Next, when I pulled the gear case cover on the clutch side, that big roller bearing is stuck on the crank. Is that pressed on or should i start beating on that to get it off?
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Well with some heat and beating I got the ball bearing off the crank. When I got the engine halves pulled apart I found about a 1/4" of crud on the bottom half, and the mag side seal was shot with lots of corrosion/crap on the engine case. I plan on cleaning all this crud/rust out of the crankcase with some carb cleaner.
Any of you guys have some tips to get the gear off the pto side of the crank?
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The gear usually comes off fairly easy with a puller. To put it back on , a little heat will help it slide right on. I usually use a heat gun to warm the gear up to slide it on. I modified a gear puller to fit to pull off the gear.
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I usually cut off the old seal that is behind the gear before removing the gear.
Like Jim said, use a heat gun on the gear to reinstall. Or, put it on a 100W light bulb, coffee pot, in the oven...You get the idea...
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This should be a photo of a bearing splitter and harmonic balancer puller pulling off a gear. You can pick up the harmonic balancer puller at sears for a reasonable price. Bearing splitters are a little harder to find and are a little pricier.
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Here, focus on this one is better.
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After beating the bearing off I'd be tempted to get a new bearing to replace it.
Any sled shop should have one that will work
Lloyd
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Well the engine is all back together. Now just need a couple bowl gaskets and needle/seats and we'll see if i put it all back right :o
Btw: used a three jaw puller for the gear after i cut the old seal off. Worked decent. Hardest part was getting the gear back on fast enough before it cooled down and got stuck half way there.
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My apology for the bearing number. If you need a shaft we may have a spare here in the barn. Most of my ski shocks are junk too. But rather than take them off completely we pull them off, polish off the old paint and rust with a wire wheel and then give them a new coat of black paint. I am sure that the ride is a little rougher than it would be with good shocks, but the sled at least looks close to stock. I will see if I can attach a photo.
thanks for posting that pic!!! i was wondering if those spreaders would work
and thanks for the bearing #
fastenal has them
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0402136
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Getting closer, hope to have it running for the jack race this weekend (even though the lake is just ice and it's supposed to be in the upper 30's/lower 40's the next few days :-\ )
Looks like I've lost the pin that runs from the drive sprockets to the spedo gear. Is that something I could find at any snowmobile shop?
Also, ordered these (https://www.denniskirk.com/mikuni/36mm-38mm-rubber-flange-adapter-ivm362001.p18850.prd/18850.sku) carb flanges and they don't fit so don't waste your money on them. I really wish newbreedparts would accept credit cards!
Anyways, I'll get some pics this weekend.