Author Topic: Removing the anti-siphon on the fuel pump due to lack of funding and tools  (Read 4999 times)

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Invader440kawa

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It pains me to say that I don't have the proper amount of funding to buy the tools I need to fix my 1979 440 invader. My parents would like me to just take to the scrapyard but I opted for a more educational donation to my local school. I cannot check my crankcase and I cannot change my crankseals. I cannot take off the clutch and the only work I have done is the cleaning and replacement of the fuel lines. I worry that I will melt a piston but I cannot be sure. This all stems down to weather I should take out the anti siphon so it gets fuel or should I just give up. Could I get some veteran kawi fixer uppers for some advice? Btw I am manuelly fuelling the carbs right now

Interceptor398

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The kit to repair the fuel pump can be found on Ebay for about $10.00.  If that will not work I might be able to find an extra one>  What is your location?

Invader440kawa

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The kit to repair the fuel pump can be found on Ebay for about $10.00.  If that will not work I might be able to find an extra one>  What is your location?
I can't fix my crankcase so I'm guessing there is no vauum pulse. The antis iphon is preventing fuel from reaching

Interceptor398

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Do you know the history of the motor?  With any 35 + year old motor crank seals can be an issue.

Invader440kawa

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Do you know the history of the motor?  With any 35 + year old motor crank seals can be an issue.
it's a 79 and some guy did some work before me, I doubt he did the seals as he didn't have any proper equipment. I just tryin to make it run so it won't get scrapped

Interceptor398

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How is the pulse line from the crank case to the fuel pump?  Regardless of what fuel pump you are using the line needs to be perfect.  If this is in a cart you may be better off with an Intruder motor.  Only a few less HP and most came with electric start and are air cool.  None of the liquid issues.

Invader440kawa

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How is the pulse line from the crank case to the fuel pump?  Regardless of what fuel pump you are using the line needs to be perfect.  If this is in a cart you may be better off with an Intruder motor.  Only a few less HP and most came with electric start and are air cool.  None of the liquid issues.
I just checked the line and it was barEly on the nipple. I haven't tried it yet. There was fire damage on most lines so I'm surprused it was intact. The filter had some stuff at the bottom. Looked like gas mixed with rust

Invader440kawa

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I live in alberta,Canada

Invader440kawa

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Hi hello I have resolved the issue and now it runs. If you encounter the same problem see if your crankcase hose is attached. If not it will not run. Now it runs at 1000 rpm so I am going to try to fix that

Interceptor398

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If you have the original carbs on the motor they will be marked 36/60.  Idle speed should be 3000.

Invader440kawa

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Re: Removing the anti-siphon on the fuel pump due to lack of funding and tools
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2016, 04:46:57 PM »
If you have the original carbs on the motor they will be marked 36/60.  Idle speed should be 3000.
I am having a problem where my right car gets fuel whilst the left does and how to I raise the rpm?

Invader440kawa

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Re: Removing the anti-siphon on the fuel pump due to lack of funding and tools
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2016, 05:10:44 PM »
Carb*

jimvw57

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Re: Removing the anti-siphon on the fuel pump due to lack of funding and tools
« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2016, 02:16:49 PM »
Carbs can be a real pain until you get used to them. if there is no fuel going to one of the carbs, try switching the hoses between cabs. that will eliminate a carb issue. My guess is the fuel pump, or the filter inside the pump.

On most fuel pump rebuild kits, they left out one of the holes in the gasket that makes the anti-siphon work. without that hole in the gasket, the pump won't work.  The sled will run with a non anti-siphon pump as long as it has enough flow for the carbs. Also make sure the carb needle and seats are in perfect shape or the fuel tank will end up inside the motor and inside the muffler, also washing out the oil in the crank seals. Once you get the gas dried out, the seals fail and melt the pistons and cylinders.