KawasakiTrax Community
Tech Information => General Help => Topic started by: cjd on February 01, 2015, 03:05:55 PM
-
2nd weekend with the new to me Invader 340. Carbs just came back from the shop cleaned/rebuilt, have flushed and cleaned the gas tank, new fuel lines were installed when I got her. Still couldn't get her to run (well, a little at first, but then nothing). Started to get hard to pull the cord, so I stopped what I was doing and read some back posts on this forum. Looks like I've got fuel in the crank case. I pulled the plugs, removed the fuel pump, disconnected the impulse hose and have been pulling the cord for a good long while, trying to get the fuel out of there. Anyone have an estimate how long this might take? Is there a quicker way? Since I'll be doing the crankseals anyway, will I be able to dump out the fuel when I split the case, or will I cause more problems by overturning the engine with fuel in the case?
I suspect the PO had the hoses connected to the wrong ports on the fuel pump. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows which lines connect to which ports? Aside from misconnected hoses and faulty valves in the pump, are there other reasons why I might have fuel in the case?
The fuel pump was apparently purchased at a recycle yard - it has "81 Kawasaki LTD" written in marker on the side of it and looks nothing like the pump in the manual. is a pump from an 81 LTD compatible with my 340?
Finally, I'm going to replace this fuel pump - is the DF52-176 the correct replacement?
cjd
-
The fuel pump has an anti syphon check valve to prevent fuel from getting past the pump when the engine is not running. Rebuild kits can be found on EBay but be sure to add the missing hole. Last time I had on flood like this is was three days of pulling it over a few times a day and letting it sit to air out.
-
At the watercross when a sled sinks we roll it on its side with exhaust down and remove spark plugs. About 10-15 pulls and all the water is out and it will start. Shouldn't be much different except gas is a LOT MORE FLAMMABLE than water.
Be sure to disconnect anything that may spark and be sure to do this outside away from flame/spark or anything that will burn should a spark find the fuel. And HAVE A GOOD FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy.
You can also split the case but remember that you are dealing with GASOLINE which will be spilling everywhere.
Be safe. We need every KawasakiTrax member we have.
-
2nd weekend with the new to me Invader 340. Carbs just came back from the shop cleaned/rebuilt, have flushed and cleaned the gas tank, new fuel lines were installed when I got her. Still couldn't get her to run (well, a little at first, but then nothing). Started to get hard to pull the cord, so I stopped what I was doing and read some back posts on this forum. Looks like I've got fuel in the crank case. I pulled the plugs, removed the fuel pump, disconnected the impulse hose and have been pulling the cord for a good long while, trying to get the fuel out of there. Anyone have an estimate how long this might take? Is there a quicker way? Since I'll be doing the crankseals anyway, will I be able to dump out the fuel when I split the case, or will I cause more problems by overturning the engine with fuel in the case?
I suspect the PO had the hoses connected to the wrong ports on the fuel pump. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows which lines connect to which ports? Aside from misconnected hoses and faulty valves in the pump, are there other reasons why I might have fuel in the case?
The fuel pump was apparently purchased at a recycle yard - it has "81 Kawasaki LTD" written in marker on the side of it and looks nothing like the pump in the manual. is a pump from an 81 LTD compatible with my 340?
Finally, I'm going to replace this fuel pump - is the DF52-176 the correct replacement?
cjd
Flooded sled remedy.
Remove key from machine, OR ensure kill switch is set to off.
1. Pull the plugs.
2. Hold throttle wide open, and pull engine over 30 pulls.
3. Dry off spark plugs, and reinstall.
Turn sled ON, or insert key
4. Hold throttle wide open, Pull the engine over.
5. Success.
this always works for me.
-
It does help to roll it over so the exhaust is pointed down otherwise the pipes will fill with fluid which will be sucked back into the engine.
-
you can split the case with gas in it,pull the motor,remove s plugs and y pipe, and COIL, exaust down, spin slowly,2 3 cups gas max.....put on a fuel shut off or the correct fuel pump[my choice],and get the crank seals overwith
-
I had this problem with my ltd. it was a bad diaphragm in the fuel pump. Filled up the block and you couldn't pul it over. I just pulled the plugs and spun it over till the battery was about dead and put the plugs back in. Fired right up.
-
many thanks all!
Went to the local shop and purchased a new pump, which was in stock. They would have had to order the rebuild kit, and I'm not that patient. The new pump has arrows pointing to the "in" and the "out". Turns out the old one did too, but was buried under all the crud that builds up on old machinery. Also picked up a new tube for the impulse line, the old one was that real pliable fuel tube material which sounds like it's not so good for that application.
It would be nice to have a battery and starter, I'm still pulling that cord... reminds me of a song they play on a local radio station on Saturday nights around these parts.
-
Anytime there's fuel lines that can gravity flow I install fuel shutoff's as the 1st thing from the tank on everything for safety.
-
Well, it looks like the fuel pump fixed it. She started yesterday and ran for a bit but then died. Lots of smoke from the exhaust! Went out today and she started on the first pull. I ran it up on a block until it stopped smoking, then took a quick trip around the garden and into the workshop. She was a little "stop and go"-ish, but idled well. Crank seals came in today so that's my weekend project.