KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: mswyka on July 26, 2015, 07:34:00 AM
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I tripped over a product made by SKF to restore the seal surface for crank seals called Speedi-Sleeve. Does anyone have any experience with these sleeves?
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Never heard of it.
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I have one to try on my pitted crank. Will post photos when it is installed.
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That is pretty fascinating...had to check out a couple Youtube vids of these things. Searched on the Vintagesleds site and found 1 guy had fought the same problem with a rusted area on a crank in a mid 70s arctic cat with a Kawasaki engine, and tried a Speedi sleeve. He was able to successfully assemble the motor, and get it idling and running perfectly. Unfortunately, there weren't too many specifics shared, and the thread ended...not knowing if it was a long term solution.
I, too, have a spare crank that has the Mag end near the sealing surface pretty rusted up.
A couple questions, that you have probably already figured out.....
1. How do you get the Speedi sleeve perfectly square on the rusted shaft..true, you can buff the shaft down to a reasonably clean surface...but a sled motor isn't exactly a low RPM gearbox....I have to wonder if the "ideal" solution is to install the sleeve and then check the runout, in the same way we check a crankshaft for runout. True enough, the rubber crank seal has some give to it, but I have to think having it precisely installed as possible would be a great thing on a shaft spinning at 8000 RPM.
2. I am willing to bet that you need to be very careful about using the installation tool to drive the Speedi sleeve too far onto a shaft. These things look like a very thin metal cylinder with a lip at one end. Apparently, you use an installation tool...which is essentially a pipe...to contact the lip and drive it onto the shaft. I bet it is a royal pain to try to tap it back if you go too far.
3. Where do you wind up placing the lip of the Speedi seal on the crankshaft? It would seem that the lip must be driven far enough to allow the crankshaft to have its correct endplay movement,and when the crankshaft is pushed hard against the Mag end, there will still be a few thousands of an inch clearance to prevent the lip of the Speedi sleeve from ever making contact with the aluminum crankcase.
This sounds like a really cool way to solve the problem, at a huge cost savings compared to having the crankshaft re-machined.
Let us know how this process procedes! 8)
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I have repaired rusted and worn jack shafts with JB weld with great success. I filled in the damaged area, smoothed it out, let it cure, then sand it smooth. I don't see why this method wouldn't work on a crank/crank seal? I don't think the seal requires a high level of precision.
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I've had cranks machined in the past... not that expensive. The machinist who cleans and balances mine is picky. Interesting idea, but I don't see a savings worth taking the chance. Just my opinion. Maybe a more common Invader crank... I haven't seen grooves and heavy pitting on many Kawi cranks. Except for LTD/Interceptor cranks, I'd think finding a "good" Invader of Intruder crank wouldn't be too difficult. :-\
Any cranks I've come across (especially Yamaha) that had pitting and grooves were too far gone. :'(
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Here is a photo of the Speedi-Sleeve, the stock installation tool supplied with the sleeve, and the custom installation tool necessary to install the sleeve onto the Kawasaki crankshaft.
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Here is a photo of the Speedi-Sleeve installed on the 1978 Invader crank. Install was quite simple.
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That looks to be an outstanding solution.....keep us posted! 8) 8)
I have a spare parts motor that has the same corrosion at the Mag end of the crank...The Mag end bearing would need to be replaced, but otherwise all good.
Interesting info to address a "less than perfect" finish on the crank where the seal sits!
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This is going to look the same, but here is another one on a 1979 Invader crank.
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I see no reason for that to not work.
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In the category of "belt and suspenders" I put a little permatex on the shaft before installing the sleeve. The sleeve has a tight fit. The permatex was just a little extra, perhaps unnecessary, insurance against air leakage.
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Here is a photo of the engine partially assembled with the mag seal in place.
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Wow, that's lookin' pretty good! 8)
Is the slightly different colored part that extends out about 3/8 inch from the seal the insert? Or is it hidden from view?
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Wow, that's lookin' pretty good! 8)
Is the slightly different colored part that extends out about 3/8 inch from the seal the insert? Or is it hidden from view?
Once the seal is installed the Speedi-Sleeve is not visible.