KawasakiTrax Community
Tech Information => General Help => Topic started by: SkiDog74 on January 30, 2014, 10:07:01 AM
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I've got a 1980 Intruder I'm resurrecting and I'm at the point of trying to fire it off, but before I do I want the right plugs. The shop manual says BZ9EV which I'm told are discontinued. It's got BR9ES in it right now, are they OK if I take the resistor caps off? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks Dan H.
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BR9ES are fine.
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Any 9 plug will fire. I have switched to the BR9EYA and find them very reliable. I like to think that they foul less than the other No. 9 plugs.
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I run the BR9ES and have had very good luck with them.
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Thanks for the info guys. I got it to run on primer last nite, but not the pump. I have fuel to the pump but no fuel to the carbs. I'll have to pull the pump apart, but I need to find some gaskets first. Figures, it was the only part of the fuel system I didn't tear apart.
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There is a problem with 90% of the gaskets made for the fuel pump. If you have the taller fuel pump with the anti-siphon valve (as it should be) there is a hole missing in the gasket that allows the anti-siphon valve to open and allow fuel to pass when the motor runs. I think it is just above the pulse input line..
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Thanks for the heads up. I've got two dealers in town so hopefully somebody's got a kit. Quick question, I did a leak down test and it passed with flying colors. But, could it a pass a leakdown and still not create a strong enough pulse to actuate the pump?
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imo hardly ever be to weak to drive the pump,even with crank seals out.
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Good to know, Thanks Kawhead. Looks like I'm off to find a kit and teardown the pump tonite. I'll post the results.
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here is the pump. notice the small hole at the lower edge. This is used to activate the valve.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/jimvw/sleds/parts/DSCN1350_zps9ccf557a.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jimvw/media/sleds/parts/DSCN1350_zps9ccf557a.jpg.html)
This is a standard gasket shipped with almost all the rebuild kits, notice there is not a hole where there should be one(used on Invader style pumps only)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/jimvw/sleds/parts/DSCN1354_zps7501320f.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jimvw/media/sleds/parts/DSCN1354_zps7501320f.jpg.html)
Here is where you cut a hole to make the anti-siphon valve work.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/jimvw/sleds/parts/DSCN1351_zps2108d376.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jimvw/media/sleds/parts/DSCN1351_zps2108d376.jpg.html)
Sorry for the out of focus pictures but it gets the information across.
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I've had a gaping hole in a torn crank seal. It caused the fuel pump to be intermittent. Sometimes it'd pump fuel just fine, other times not at all...
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Thanks for the pics Jim. (pics make everything better :)). When you guys mention crank seal issues with Kawasakis which ones is it? Outers?, PTO,MAG? or the labyrinth(center) seals?
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3 seals, PTO, Mag, and there is one behind the oil pump drive gear. I've never heard of a center seal failing.
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mag, then pto, just take the bottom case off and be done....g6, i've seen that but never not drive the pump at all, but never say never either ::)
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Most common is the mag seal. The pto outer seal will cause it to leak gear case oil, inner PTO has oil around it and if it does leak, it sucks oil into motor. Center seal rarely fails unless you disconnect the oil injection or run out of injector oil.
To replace the center seal, you have to split the crankshaft kind of a machine shop thing as it must be straight and true when it goes back together (press fit) As gixxer6 said, never seen one go bad.