KawasakiTrax Community
Tech Information => So you got a "New to you Kawasaki snowmobile" => Topic started by: Interceptor398 on January 19, 2015, 02:17:23 PM
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mswyka
Sr. Member
Posts: 433
Re: Running premix instaed of pump
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2015, 05:53:20 PM »QuoteModifyRemoveSplit TopicBased upon our experience pump failure is defined as putting too much oil into the engine. The pump is a rotating barrel pump and is quite exquisite in its simplicity. The barrel appears to be ceramic coated and will inject oil when the ports in the barrel line up with the outlet ports on the pump housing. If grit enters the pump it will wear the coating off of the barrel and allow oil to enter the engine all the time. It is easy to spot this problem because the engine will litteraly drink oil. The photo attached shows a worn pump barrel. The two circumferential stripes are grooves that should not be there.
At any rate, if you take the pump apart to check it be sure to remove both gears before attempting to slide out the barrel. If the barrel is slid out before the bottom gear this gear will score the coating on the barrel.
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Photo attached
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Also, don't forget that when reconnecting the lines there is a huge difference between ports on the pump. The port to the crankcase produces twice the oil of the cylinder ports.
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I want to preface this post by saying that there is probably no good reason to take apart an oil injector pump, but if it is absolutely necessary, here is some additional information:
1. After removing the oil cable cam and the end plates, the first part that must be removed is the input shaft. This is a simple, but difficult process. Essentially the shaft has to be pulled out - straight out, and likely it will not want to come. There is a seal on this shaft. The seal does not need to be removed to remove the shaft. But with that said, if the shaft is not pulled straight out, the shaft, the housing, or the seal can be damaged.
2. After the input shaft is removed the oil pump cam shaft can be removed. There is a spring clip inside the housing that has to be pulled off. The spring clip holds the cam inside of the housing. In the photo the cam shaft is shown partially pulled out and with the spring clip re-installed so that it would not get lost. This cam comes out fairly easily. Although some pressure may need to be applied to the head of the pump barrel to allow the cam shaft to slide past.
3. Once those parts are out, the pump barrel can be removed. Note in the third photo there are two parallel grooves running part way along the length of the barrel. These grooves were caused because I did not remove the input shaft before removing the barrel and the teeth of the worm gear on the input shaft scored the outside of the barrel as it was pulled out.
Again, the other thing seen here is that the barrel is scored around its circumference at the oil outlet. Some debris must have been lodged in the port which wore a grove in the barrel. This groove allowed the pump to leak excess oil into the engine causing excess smoke and abnormally high - and quite noticeable oil consumption.
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Great info to know!! Thanks guys 8)
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Also, don't forget that when reconnecting the lines there is a huge difference between ports on the pump. The port to the crankcase produces twice the oil of the cylinder ports.
I hope this can be confirmed. I'm not sure mine is hooked up like this illustration shows. I think the top two nipples on mine are feeding cylinders. I will double check.
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Also, don't forget that when reconnecting the lines there is a huge difference between ports on the pump. The port to the crankcase produces twice the oil of the cylinder ports.
I hope this can be confirmed. I'm not sure mine is hooked up like this illustration shows. I think the top two nipples on mine are feeding cylinders. I will double check.
I just checked the 1978 parts manual. It does confirm that the pic shown here is correct. Furthermore the nozzles have different part numbers. 92062-503 NOZZLE, cylinder. 92062-3001 NOZZLE, crankcase.
I'm pretty confident that I hooked mine up wrong :-\ I will be my checking fresh rebuild tomorrow. Does anyone know the difference between the two nozzles?
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Take a close look at the 3 nozzles on your sled. They are basically a hollow bolt with an open, extended tip.
The slender tip on 2 of the nozzles will be noticeably smaller than the other one.
The 2 with the small tip go to the cylinders.....the one with the larger tip goes to the center crankcase point.
All 3 of the brass banjo check valves that these nozzles go through are identical, so you can use them at any of the 3 positions.