KawasakiTrax Community
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: neworiginal on March 26, 2019, 11:59:29 AM
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Hello All,
Attempting to remove my 340 invader flywheel and have already failed at the flywheel nut. It appears a few tabs were in place to stop the nut from moving. I have since pushed these back. However now I cannot seem to get a properly size socket in place. What is the proper socket size? I assume a six sided is best. Also are those 2 brackets suppose to get bent back? Pic attached. Thx.
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Got it, lower profile 15/16 with impact
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Update, broke bolts on the first flywheel puller.
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Get some good 12.9 grade bolts. HUGE difference.
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I recommend taking the starter cup off first. That gives access for a normal impact socket.
Tom, do you have a source for 12.9? I just bought a a bag of 10.9
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Thanks, I did remove the starter cup after I got the flywheel nut off. My next question was where to get the better bolts as I just had no luck at Home Depot looking for grade 8 bolts. The 3 bolts that came with the puller stood no chance. The 1/4 28's fine threads I did buy at Home Depot look to have too deep of a thread cut to use. What is the exact bolt size, I was wrong with the replacements I got which were 1/4 28's
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I'm 95% sure that you need 6 mm bolts.
A curious thing about the Kawi sleds...the engines and I believe the clutches were made in Japan, and use metric fasteners. The rest of the sled was made in Lincoln, Nebraska, using good ol' 'Murican SAE fasteners.
Maybe gixxer6 will post on here with info on the very high grade bolts......I have found that the hex (Allen wrench style) bolts are usually a very high grade compared to regular bolts.....although I don't know what grade they typically are.
Go to a decent Auto Parts store or good hardware and pick up some 6 mm Allen style bolts and give it a try.
Patience is a virtue when removing a flywheel. I like to put Never-Seize on the bolt threads and the tip of the puller bolt.
Torque it down pretty hard, making sure the puller remains "square" with the world. I don't like to go crazy, but tapping the puller with a hammer helps. Tighten, tap, see if you can tighten a tiny bit more, let sit overnight and try for a little more torque the next day. You will get it.
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A couple more thoughts.....I dug out my puller and a spare flywheel I have.
Once the 3 bolts first begin to thread into the flywheel, it takes 8 full turns to get the threads completely through the flywheel. Go 9 to be safe.
Knowing this will prevent the bolts from going too far where they could ding up one of the coils laying behind the flywheel, and it makes sure the threads are fully engaged so you have less risk of stripping any of the threads.
Whenever you pick up some new bolts for your puller, pick up a few really thick, heavy washers to place beneath the bolt head in case you need them to get this proper spacing.
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Going to let it sit a bit.
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They are 6mm x 1.0. For my puller I use bolts that are 60mm long
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Trying a new puller and bolts. I have to cranked down so hard I'm beginning to think I'm doing this wrong. The flynut is just on a few turns to stop it from flying off and killing me if it ever does give. I cant tighten anymore without spinning the engine off the work bench.Should I give it a shot with the impact or just wait it out?
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Here is some more interesting reading from vintagesleds.com
Couple things caught my eye....definitely don't use too much heat.
And, I have never tried the computer spray that is extremely cold, but that sounds interesting.
https://vintagesleds.com/bs/index.php?topic=50045.0
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A couple more thoughts.....I dug out my puller and a spare flywheel I have.
Once the 3 bolts first begin to thread into the flywheel, it takes 8 full turns to get the threads completely through the flywheel. Go 9 to be safe.
Knowing this will prevent the bolts from going too far where they could ding up one of the coils laying behind the flywheel, and it makes sure the threads are fully engaged so you have less risk of stripping any of the threads.
Whenever you pick up some new bolts for your puller, pick up a few really thick, heavy washers to place beneath the bolt head in case you need them to get this proper spacing.
This is some really good advice.
Now, once the puller is cranked down, just like the drive converter, you can hit the center shaft of the puller with a good hammer. It has to be a dead-on blow directly in line with the axis of the crankshaft. I use the short handled lump hammer (fourth from the right in the photo). Should only take one shot.
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when the puller is tight it must be square with the flywheel so it pulls even
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Had some errors trying post a success post with pics but cliff notes are I got it with a wagner heat gun and the staples spray approach. thx all.
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Pictures should be resized smaller, if to big it does not work. Glad to hear you got it to come apart!
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Crank is exposed. Blown piston from previous owner so fine metal particles found. Any tricks to get the PTO gear off?
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Couple more pics.
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Gear puller for the gear, they are a pretty tight fit. Heat it up to put it back on, I set them on a hot light bulb. Takes a little persuading but goes on OK.
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We generally warm the gear up with a torch until it slides over the crank. Normally goes most of the way and then we seat it with a hammer blow to a large socket.