New to me 1980 Invader 440

[Interceptor398]

You want this one but when you take the pump apart be aware you will need to add 1 hole to make it work.

 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xkawasaki+snowmobile+fuel+pump+kit.TRS5&_nkw=kawasaki+snowmobile+fuel+pump+kit&_sacat=0

[freak_in_cage]

Sorry but the page gave a whole list of stuff. You're meaning the LLP 07-417?

[5kaws]

Yes the LLP 07-417 will work.  But like 398 said make sure you punch the one hole where it needs to be.   I just did one month ago. Wish I had the pics still to show you. 

[freak_in_cage]

What about the other Winderosa ones I linked? Do I just have to add a shut off valve with those or is there something else? Thanks in advance.

[Interceptor398]

The ones you linked to will not fit the Kawasaki pump.  Check the compatibility link in the add.

[freak_in_cage]

I did see the compatibility link, but wanted 100% confirmation from someone...also, I thought I read or head that Polaris used a similar pump. I will have to get one of those LLP kits. Thanks.

[freak_in_cage]

One other thing. Can someone tell me how to install a toggle switch to bypass the key? The ignition cylinder is seized in the run/lights position and looks terrible.

[rminier]

 A new ignition switch is about 16 bucks plus shipping from denniskirk.com.  Part # 20-211.
 A local auto store would probably have them, too. Basically the same switches John Deere or Cub Cadet garden tractors use....almost a  "universal" key switch.
 You can use a 2 position toggle switch, with 2 spade terminals and have RUN or OFF....but you would never have a brake light.
 On a 2 spade toggle switch, hook the gray magneto wire that goes to terminal M on your current keyswitch to the top terminal, and the black ground wire (G terminal on your current keyswitch) to the bottom terminal.
 Toggle switch up to run, switch down for off.
 You could splice the 2 wires together that go to the "L" terminal on your current key switch and regain the function of your brake light....one of the wires should be a red/yellow wire and the other a yellow/red wire. Surprisingly, splicing those wires together that go to the brake lever switch also lights up the Tachometer light (all the time)....but that is the only light that would be on.
 To have the ability to switch from "off" to "run" (which includes the brake light always ready to function) to "run with all lights" would require a 3 position toggle switch with 3 spade terminals....plus you would have to splice together several wires to make it function properly.
 I could describe what that would require if you wish.....but a $15 new switch sounds better and better.

[freak_in_cage]

Thanks for the key info. Being in Canada, the shipping on everything is the killer. I'll have to look at my local John Deere and see what they have. Thanks.

[Lloyd (ljm)]

Royal Distributing has switches. They are in Ontario, But ship world wide www.royaldistributing.com

 Any snowmobile shop can get you a switch that will work

[Interceptor398]

Hang in the cage guy, we are getting close to you having to hanging on for your life!!!!!

[freak_in_cage]

Well, I've ordered all the parts I feel I need to get it running properly (complete engine gasket kit with seals, fuel pump rebuild kit, o-rings for the carbs and a clutch puller). Once everything gets here, I can start the tear down. I'm going to leave the top end alone for now as I feels 140 & 145 psi compression is alright, since the manual I have for the motor says 130 to 150 psi and I'm right in the middle. I may also have a line on a new windshield locally as mine is cracked.

My plan isn't to restore this thing to factory showroom condition, but rather have it be a reliable sled I can play around on. Having said that, I am toying with the idea of putting a newer skid under it for a more comfortable ride. I have read of people putting mid 90's Polaris Indy skids in these with little modification, but I haven't been able to find info on the modifications required. What is really all involved in this swap? Have any of you done it? Do you have any pictures or measurements? What models and years of sleds are good donors? I figure that if this is a swap I'm going to do, I should probably do it while the sled is already ripped apart.

I apologize in advance to the purists that have prayed to the Kawasaki gods for forgiveness on my behalf.