Tachometer needle bounces and lights don't work

[wisc79intruderguy]

Hi guys my "new to me" 440 1980 invader has a couple small issues first the speedometer works fine but bulbs for both were blown the headlite bulb is good with the taillight bulb is good too but no brake tail or headlight I bought a voltage tester but its too fricken cold out I have no garage any idea's appreciated! Tach bulb blown too.

[mswyka]

Do you have a wiring diagram?

Can you turn off the engine with both the key and the kill switch on the handle bars?

Is the plug on the back of the ignition switch making good contact?

Are all the connectors in the 5-pin engine connector making contact?

When testing for voltage, if I remember correctly the engine is putting out AC volts and will not read correctly on DC volt scale - somebody check me on this.

[mswyka]

I would add, make sure that the engine has a good ground to the frame.

[Gilson435]

Not to hyjack your thread but the tach on my 1980 Intruder only works with the lights on... Everything else works fine like it should.... I would suspect in your situation a bad wire, ground, or poor connection somewhere.

[wisc79intruderguy]

Thanks Gilly

[wisc79intruderguy]

Well my sleds kill switch works along with the ignition switch except "lites" on ignition switch lights still don't work. I guess I could ride during the day lol.

[Gilson435]

Is your battery good? I know on mine the lights will turn on with the key even when the engine is not running. I also had to replace my regulator/rectifier because it was blowing bulbs...and not charging the battery... I know the service manual was very helpful for diagnosing and testing components! Here is a link if you don't have a service manual... http://www.vintagesnow.com/Kawasaki.html

[wisc79intruderguy]

My sled has no battery

[wisc79intruderguy]

Anyone? If I don't figure this out I'll sell or trade this thing go back to a cat or doo I've waited a long time to get one of these and its pretty nice but you need lites lol!

[gixxer6]

Do you have a 12V test light?

[Gilson435]

My sled has no battery

1980 Intruders came factory with electric start and should have a battery. I'm not sure if it would affect anything by not having the battery hooked up but it possibly could...   Are you saying yours doesn't have electric start or it just doesn't have the battery in it?

[rminier]

 Let's start over.....you are talking about a 1980 Invader, correct?....therefore no electric start....no battery.
 mswyka is correct...all of the electrical current for that sled would be AC Voltage.....no DC Voltage.
 Do you have an electrical multimeter?
  If not:
   1.  Fire the sled up and see if you have a brake light, using a known good bulb. The brake light should always work with the key in the "run" position, or the "run/lights" position.
   2.  If the brake light works...at a "normal" brightness, we have learned several things:
        -The lighting coil is working and putting out AC voltage.
        -The voltage regulator is working (most likely) if the brake light illuminates at a normal brightness.
        -The AC current is making its way from the lighting coil through the voltage regulator to the "B" terminal on the keyswitch. From the keyswitch, the current is flowing to the brake lever, then to the brake light when you squeeze the brake lever.

   That is the 1st thing I would check if I didn't have a multimeter.
    Then, we would know most things are working.....from there, we have to see if the keyswitch bridges the "B" terminal (which we know is good if the brake light works) to the keyswitch "L" terminal, when you turn the key to the "run/lights" position. The "L" terminal takes the current from the "B" terminal and sends it out to all of the other lights.

Try the brake light and let us know...

[Gilson435]

Oh geez do I feel dumb... I thought you had an Intruder...Ooops... Do what rminier suggested, that is good advice

[rminier]

 I thought of one more thing.....Try your brake light 1st with the key in the "run" position. If it works OK, flip the key to the "run/lights" position, and watch the brake light closely.....see if it dims or goes completely out....that will be another valuable clue.

Gilson435..... you hardly ever miss much....

[wisc79intruderguy]

Upon further exhausting investigation into todays SLOBOVIAN cold the yellow wire from the stator was overheated and its corresponding spot in the plugs was melted so I'm going to get the old girl fired up tomorrow test the wire then plug both yellow wires or connect them that should solve it! I HOPE