Author Topic: The Intimidator  (Read 35562 times)

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gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #150 on: March 21, 2019, 01:19:37 PM »
Caramel like light brown is ok but dark grey is not good. 3.0 slides is pretty big which side is the Carmel plug on ?. Dark grey is indicating it's lean

The 3.0's seem to work well.  I don't recall which side was lean.  Next on my list was to disconnect the wire harness from the engine and try it again.  I was also going to take my plug wrench with me and check the plugs after a WOT run.  Where I live I have to run it real easy for the first 1/4 mile or so before I can rip on it...  Unfortunately it's been 40's and raining here, looks like it will be next season before I can continue.   :(

Odd that just one side is lean.  What are the possible causes? 

Checkmarks

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #151 on: March 23, 2019, 02:52:41 PM »
Tom,

It really sounds like you are running out of fuel in the carburetors.  330 mains is what I can calculate from my notes should be very close to correct. 

Do a plug chop before the motor motor flows the piston out.  1 motor to operating temp, 2 New plugs, 3 wide open throttle on a jack stand THREE SECONDS, 4 pull plugs and inspect.

lots of solutions from here. 

Looking at the grounding straps the "burn mark" no longer looking shiney new and the line on the strap that looks brand new.  Where is that line with respect down the grounding strap?  The perfect a/f ratio presents the burn line in the middle of the bend of that grounding strap.

Cut the end of the threaded portion of the spark plug off with an angle grinder.  The insulating ceramic portion is what to look at and the "smoke" line marks lean or rich.  You want that in the middle of the white ceramic.

Note the temperature and I assume you are near sea level.  Every 1000ft makes a notable change as well as every 20 degrees of temp.  All the other main jet choices can be calculated from your plug chop presenting correctly. 

I suspect your fuel pump is not keeping up with the demand.  Wideband stand alone system reins supreme.  Plug chop just as effective.


gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #152 on: February 25, 2020, 02:04:19 PM »
I pulled the heads and noticed that the piston wash is showing that both sides are running slightly rich.  Which is odd being that the one plug was a little grey. 

I have been working on switching over to Polaris clutches.  I'm just waiting for the belt and new clutch bolt to come and I will be ready for testing. 

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #153 on: March 01, 2020, 08:37:29 AM »
 I just noticed something On your primary you have a  Electric start gear ring on it is the  alignment correct between the 2 clutches also did you put in a snubber to hold the engine from twisting

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #154 on: March 01, 2020, 09:19:52 AM »
No ring gear on the clutch...there are some balancing holes drilled in the edge of the shiv that are visible in the picture. 

No snubber installed yet. 

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #155 on: March 01, 2020, 04:50:28 PM »
My bad I had to zoom in the picture better

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #156 on: April 14, 2020, 02:32:17 PM »
Tom,

On the p-85 clutching system I used the Polaris Secondary.  Pulled the stock K shaft and had it cut and welded to accept the slide on drift keyway secondary from the Polaris. If I was going for really fancy I would have used a Team secondary if all my Christmas gifts were used.  The solutions are then dialed via Polaris 440 race program (2004) to make the clutches do all you can dream up. 

Glad i looked at this thread.  Your are chasing my pipe dream!

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #157 on: April 14, 2020, 05:26:54 PM »
Polaris Clutches installed just in time for just one test ride.  The conditions weren’t ideal but good enough to put a smile on my face  ;D.  It performs MUCH better than any combination of Kawasaki clutching that I tried.  Engagement was around 6000, and it held steady at 8800-8900 until I ran out of runway. 

It was relatively easy to install the Polaris secondary:  Shorten the jack shaft by 1/2”(cut the clutch side), then cut a 1/4” keyway 4.25” from the cut end and you’re ready to install.  Source some various thickness 1” shims to install between the bearing and the secondary on the jack shaft.  Use these shims to determine the correct offset.  The stock Kawasaki secondary bolt is too long, so I used and extra gear bolt and washer from the other end of the jack shaft.  Use the stock aluminum secondary shims under the bolt to shim the secondary.  It needs to “float” by .040”.  No welding was required. 

For next season I will be installing ported 4/6 cylinders and custom shaped high compression heads (Thanks Interceptor398 for the awesome work on the heads!).  I have already pulled the trail ported Invader cylinders (they will be going on my trail rider 81 Invader along with the twin Kit pipes), the porting proved to be less than optimal for the high rpm tune of the new pipes. 

Interceptor398

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #158 on: April 14, 2020, 08:02:39 PM »
Have you played with the Comet clutches?

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #159 on: April 15, 2020, 06:54:39 AM »
Have you played with the Comet clutches?

I built up a comet but decided not to install it, instead I went right to the Polaris setup.  From my research, there really isn't any improvement over the Kawasaki clutch in switching to the comet.  Unless you cannot find the different springs and weights for the Kaw clutch.  There are however many benefits in switching to the newer design Polaris clutches.  The biggest being the larger diameter gives it overdrive, this allows for lower gearing which equals better performance.  I am going to run 340 gears in my 81 Invader and expect to run the same top speed.  Plus the newer design is more efficient, which means more power to the track.   

Ameritude

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #160 on: November 22, 2020, 10:07:26 PM »
Still have that set up comet? Would you be willing to sell it?

Checkmarks

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #161 on: December 10, 2020, 11:28:30 PM »
Gix,

Just a revisit of this thread.  For that P85 secondary you just cut 0.5in and cut the keyway ignoring the splines?  Wish I could have seen that move.  Makes for a snap on the next p85 system. 

Thanks for the share!

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #162 on: December 11, 2020, 08:30:19 AM »
Gix,

Just a revisit of this thread.  For that P85 secondary you just cut 0.5in and cut the keyway ignoring the splines?  Wish I could have seen that move.  Makes for a snap on the next p85 system. 

Thanks for the share!

Yes, after shortening the shaft there wasn't much left of the splines anyway, no reason they can't be ignored.  Other than going through the work of removing the jackshaft, it was a very easy modification.  I had my machinist do the work, he only charged me around $40 if I remember correctly. 

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #163 on: January 31, 2022, 02:29:15 PM »
I've finally gotten back to working on "the green sled"...  I decided to build an entirely new motor for it.  I removed the ribs in the upper half of the crankcase that split the air before going into the cylinders, installed some ported 4/6 cylinders, custom cut high compression heads (Thanks Interceptor398!), and Polaris ignition.   I dumped in some 110 race fuel and it fired right up.  The first ride showed some promise, but I have some clutch tuning to do.  It still seems to not want to make power over 8500 rpm which I'm surprised by...I may end up with some 100% custom built pipes by the time I'm done with this thing. 

I've got a race coming up in less than 2 weeks.  Hoping to get it on the ice again by then. 

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #164 on: February 08, 2022, 06:21:54 PM »
8500rpms are you running out of space length wise. Have you taken a black magic marker and mark the sleeves primary & secondary (inside) this should tell you how far the belt goes.
Example say you mark the clutches you hit the 8500 rpms you come to a stop the worn mark only goes 1/2 way on your clutches this means you’re not geared right (too high)