Hello from SE Indiana

[sacky07]

Just wanted to say hello to everyone on here before I go on with my problems I have a 79 440 intruder. I have a surging idle problem I think. We can rev it up but it wont come back down to idle. I will if we cover the carbs with our hands though. Is this possibly a crank seal problem or a crankcase seal problem? Im going to pull the motor either way this fall before the possible winter snow hits in Jan. haha. also I broke the filler neck on gas tank as soon as I brought it home. Ive seen there is a repair kit. Where can I find that? The mixer has been removed, whats a good mix to go with? its got 1100 miles or hours on it. whats considered a lot? thanks,Dustin

[gixxer6]

Crank seals are a good place to start.  Look the carb boots over real close, the rubber will crack and leak.  While you have it apart, clean the carbs.  Then double check that the throttle & choke cables are adjusted correctly, and sync the carbs. 

I like to run 40:1 with a good synthetic oil in all my pre-mix two-strokes. 

[sacky07]

If I was to back to the factory oil pump would it be okay with no oil being run thru it in who knows how long? What size fuel line does this sled have? im gonna replace all that as well. when it does run it smokes like a chimney. we thought it would burn off from sitting but it never lets up. whats causing this? I don't know jack about 2 strokes. Any tips would be great. Thanks

[mswyka]

If you don't know the history of  the sled tear down and rebuild the engine before attempting to diagnose.  As far as the oil pump goes, the manual has instructions for measuring the output to see if it is in the acceptable range.  The pumps tend to be good but can go bad.  What I have seen more times than I want to is a very bad sequence.  There is a crank seal or carb boot air leak that results in the lean burn of a piston.  The owner looks at the piston and says "oh, it didn't get enough oil"  so they disconnect the oil pump and pre-mix gas and oil.  After that it never works right and it shows up on craigslist with the line "ran last year, needs carb adjustments".  Take it all apart and put it back together right and  you will have a great sled.

[sacky07]

So when you say rebuild do you mean for inspection or replace pistons rings machine accrdinly?

[gixxer6]

Take the motor all apart, inspect everything, if its broke, or worn, replace it.  If the pistons look warn, replace them.  If not, run em.  A compression test before you take it apart would also be a good idea. 

The smoke could be caused from old pre-mix gas???

[sacky07]

so ive read the manual and tips n tricks on here for removing drive clutches. I get it, but what is the clutch removal tool and how do you fit a gear puller in there?? are there pics of this being done some where?

[gixxer6]

No need for a gear puller to remove the primary. 

https://www.denniskirk.com/28146.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CLiL28vl-LkCFdFDMgod1FYAdA

[jimvw57]

The clutch puller is a strange looking threaded bolt that you tighten down and the clutch pops off. The flywheel can be a whole different story... sometimes they don't like to come off too easily. Be careful when threading the bolts into the flywheel. If you put them in too far, they damage the coils underneath. BE SURE to use grade 8 bolts on the flywheel puller. It comes off that hard.

[sacky07]

Ordered that clutch puller, engine gasket kit for the tear down inspection. Gonna wait on carb boots till after I get it tore apart. should I plan on splitting the case for the seal replacement? I read two different ways on here. Is removing the jugs part of this inspection too? What am I looking at other than the pistons? What are you refering to as the flywheel? Im not getting my drive or driven clutch to move in or out on the shafts they ride on. I read the manual and cant get the belt to go on. Do these sieze up? what should I use to free them up? thanks dustin

[Interceptor398]

You will need to split the case to change the crank seals.  The secondary clutch will seperate a little if you turn the half that moves and it will make getting the belt on easyer.

[sacky07]

what do you use to seal crankcase back up? what will I need as far as gaskets go for tearing this deep into engine? also how do "clean" your carbs?

[bryan_damone]

Here is great tutorial on carb cleaning:

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/352682-how-to-clean-your-mikuni/

[jimvw57]

Crankcase sealant is important that whatever you use, 1) no silicone (gas eats through it) and 2) must be rated for gas immersion. If the crankcase seal fails, you will melt a piston and cylinder. (same for a crankshaft seal)  replacing the crankshaft seals without splitting the case will damage the outside seal on the crank seal. DON'T DO IT!! split the case and do it right.

Start out by checking compression. it should be the same on both sides (or within a few pounds) if it isn't, I'd pull the jugs and check out the pistons, rings, etc. anything below 120 and pull it apart.

Flywheel needs to come off to put new seals on. If you need the center seals, the crank will need to be pulled apart and pressed back together. Best done at a machine shop if you don't have the tools to make sure it is straight.


If you use anything on the driven or drive clutches, take them apart for a thorough cleaning and put them together dry. Adding any lube will mess up how they work.  As 398 said, rotate the back side of the driven clutch and you can then pry it apart. I stuff the belt in there to hold it apart. then put on the drive side.
Another method is to install it on the drive side, raise the back of the sled and walk the belt onto the driven clutch letting the track turn as you go.

[sacky07]

Did a compression check and got 130 on each cylinder giving it a pull