Setting up my new Invader 440

[seekanddestroy2]

Hi guys, new to the board here. Alot of people recommended this forum for some insight and help on an Invader I'm going through. I picked up a 1200 Mile 1979 Invader out of a barn a few weeks ago, sat 10+ Years. Luckily before storage the tank was dried out, so i was able to just soak the jets (still a little oil fuel in the bowls), and add fresh gas. I got it fired right up, its a little temperamental. It idles at 2500rpms or so until it warms up then has difficultly idling, and it also has quite a low range bog, once it gets up to 6k or so it takes off on the track stand. I also noticed that my once half full oil sight glass, was now milky. I'm going to take a wild guess and say I have a bad set of crank seals?

I have the motor just sitting in the chassis, going to ready to pull today until I realized the clutch puller I ordered was incorrect. So waiting on a replacement. I was planning on replacing both crank seals, and probably just doing a top end while the motor is on the bench. Anything else you guys reccommend? The sled is just going to be a play toy, and will do 5-6 sno-x races in the local leaf spring class. Any tips, tricks or opinions welcome.

Also, the "Vacuum Jet" Mikuni Carbs on this sled are junk. Id really like to put a set of 36 or 38mm Mikuni Round Slides of a 90's Polaris on it. Any insight there? Jetting?

Last question is the oil injection cable is snapped, and in all honesty I'd much rather premix my fuel for this sled anyways. I was just going to plug the line off to the oil pump and remove the tank and what not, unless I could locate a pump block off plate something. Best of my understanding the oil for the waterpump is in a seperate section of the crankcase so the lack of oil injection shouldn't affect that, am I correct?

Thanks in advance for the help! Pete

[Trucker]

You cannot block of the oil injection the invader motors have a line that feed the center bearings that needs oil.

[Interceptor398]

Welcome to the site.  Oil injection on these sleds is near bullet proof.  Why mix if you don't need to but it's your choice as long as you keep the center bearing line working.  As long as the engine is out do all the seals and put in some fresh piston rings.  Is there something worn out with the carbs or do you just not like that style of carb?  As long as they are clean and have fresh, clean fuel they work fine, at least mine do.  The worst part of the carbs are the little plastic elbows. They are easy to break.  Good luck!

[gixxer6]

With only 1200 miles on it, unless there's damage I wouldn't mess with the top end.  There are 3 crank seals on these Invaders, like Interceptor398 said, make sure you change all 3.  The power-jet carbs work quite well, as long as you have the original airbox installed.  Unless you plan on doing heavy modification, there isn't much to be gained from switching carbs and/or running without the airbox. 

EDIT:  Welcome to the site!  Be careful, these Kawi's can be addictive...

[jimvw57]

2500 rpm is a bit low, and that will cause your bog. the rubber o-ring inside the center of the carb bowl can cause a lot of headaches, make sure it fits in smoothly and tight.

As mentioned, crank seals are a must! and maybe a fuel pump rebuild if it has been sitting that long. There is a hole missing on the fuel pump gaskets so look carefully at what you take apart.

as for the oil pump, you could disassemble the motor and put in an Intruder crank, but it would be easier to get a new cable and after adjusting it, let it go (and add oil with every gas fill)

Also take a look at the belt and clutches, they can cause bogging too.

And Balance the carbs!!! makes a big difference!!