Author Topic: TIPS FOR A LEAK FREE CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION  (Read 7842 times)

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Trucker

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TIPS FOR A LEAK FREE CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION
« on: October 15, 2012, 03:46:38 PM »
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TIPS FOR A LEAK FREE CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION
      
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78invader440
   
post Jan 26 2008, 08:59 PM
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Over the years, there have been many posts regarding cylinder head gaskets, installation techniques, and leaks. I am comprising this post to try and capture all of what has been said in one location so it's easy to get to for future reference.

The first thing is to get the basics squared away before we start talking installation. I don't think it needs to be said, but you've got to make sure the head and the cylinder are absolutely clean of any and all old gasket material. The head is easy, but the cylinders need work because of the studs. Around the studs is important.
Do your homework: Make absolutely certain that the head/cylinder/gasket combination you're going to use works with the thickness of washers used under the acorn cylinder head nuts. These acorn nuts frequently bottom out internally before generating enough clamp load on the gasket. This is a mjor cause of leaks, so don't overlook it.

Wet sand the cylinder head surface using WD-40 as the fluid on the sandpaper. Do the sanding on a PERFECTLY flat surface, or use a machined plate to wrap the paper around. Check the head surface for imperfections.

Cylinder head gaskets: There's a raging debate here. Some people have excellent results with aftermarket gaskets (Winderosa) and others have disasters. I've been through both. The key with the Winderosa gasket is the fit of the gasket over the studs. There is enough variation in the manufacture of these gaskets that some of them bind up on the head studs. Sometimes you can remedy the situation just by switching what cylinder you use it on, or by rotating it 90 degrees on the cylinder. Either way, the gasket has got to drop over the head studs without forcing it into place. You may have to whitle the stud holes slightly.
When you use these gaskets, you have to use RTV sealant on them, except around the fire ring. Permatex makes a professional grade product called "Right Stuff" that works excellent.
IF YOU CAN FIND A SET ON THE INTERNET, I would absolutely recommend using the John Deere Liquifire head gaskets. These are a two-piece design that has a drop-in copper fire ring. The gasket itself has an RTV like precoating on it that requires no additional sealant. These gaskets work EXCELLENT.

Cylinder head torque: The book calls for something like 19 ft-lbs. I recommend 22 ft-lbs in two stages. Torque everything to 15, then go up to 22. Once you get the engine up and running, do a full heat cycle on it and then retorque the head nuts you can get to. Make sure it has totally cooled down before the retorque. The nuts you can't get to (the ones under the water manifold) you'll have to pass on (which is why I recommend 22 as the installation torque). I think there are another two you have to get with an open-end wrench. Retorque these with the umph method.

Good luck. If others have additions they want to make to this post, please do. Let's use it as the "one stop shopping" post for head gaskets.
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Boomologist
   
post Jan 26 2008, 11:40 PM
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A one stop place for all the tips & tricks for head gaskets would be great.
But first, lets kick around a few thoughts:

>>>then re torque the head nuts you can get to. Make sure it has totally cooled down before the re torque. The nuts you can't get to (the ones under the water manifold) you'll have to pass on.....Retorque these with the umph method<<<
To use the "umph" method on some of them and not to re-torque others leaves the nuts with all different torque spec's. Personally I either re-torque all of them or leave them alone. If a proper preparation has been done and good quality gaskets are used there rarely is a problem and if there is it is usually the studs bottoming out in the nuts.

>>>Wet sand the cylinder head surface using WD-40 as the fluid on the sandpaper. Do the sanding on a PERFECTLY flat surface.....<<<
It is still very possible to round the outside edges of the head simply by applying uneven pressures when moving the head across the paper. Unless you are familiar with this procedure I would stay away from doing it. This can easily result in damage to the head that is not fixable.
Also, by using sandpaper you are removing material from the head which will raise compression but most of all it will make the squish area smaller and could easily cause piston slap against the head. I would recommend staying away from using any abrasive on the head unless you are wanting to raise compression and are familiar with the design of the head including the required clearance in the squish area.
Also, removing material from the surface of the head will make it more likely that a head stud can bottom out in the acorn nut.
Beside, you don't know if any previous owners have removed material and now you are going to remove more.

>>>John Deere Liquifire head gaskets. These are a two-piece design that has a drop-in copper fire ring. The gasket itself has an RTV like precoating <<<
There are other aftermarket gasket sets for the Kawasaki that also have that coating. Most that I purchase locally have it. Using this type of gasket will lessen the chance of a leak to nothing if the surfaces are clean. Only trouble with these gaskets is cleaning them off next time you remove the head.


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Thanks,
Ron