Author Topic: The Intimidator  (Read 8399 times)

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mswyka

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #120 on: February 11, 2019, 06:55:42 AM »
Congratulations!
Intruders:  1978, 1979, 1980, 1981 Custom
Invaders:  1979 340, 1980 440, 1980 440 TOC Custom
Projects:  1979 Invader 340, 1980 Invader 340, 1979 Intruder 440, 1982 Intruder 440, 1980 Drifter 340 F/C, 1972 Panther 303 ...

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #121 on: February 11, 2019, 08:43:07 AM »
Thanks! 

Here is some video:  https://youtu.be/0-TZWJejcjM

It did fairly good the first 50 feet, but then would fall on it's face as it would over rev.  As I would get further down the ice, the revs would drop, but they would drop too far.  I'm really struggling with these Kawi clutches...time to get the Polaris clutches installed! 
« Last Edit: February 11, 2019, 09:33:06 AM by gixxer6 »

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #122 on: February 12, 2019, 08:46:39 PM »
Know your max rpms in drag racing you want to hit that within 50' of the starting line and have your secondary open up quickly. With the engine revving max rpms & your secondary is opening up fast (this pulls the engine down) which creates more speed if you don't have enough gearing then go up in size. If you have the clutches set up like this you never lift if you do the engine will not have enough power to turn a 1:1 ratio. The video you showed is good reference the wheelie takes up E.T..

Interceptor398

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #123 on: February 12, 2019, 10:08:38 PM »
Excellent advise!!

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #124 on: February 13, 2019, 06:52:22 AM »
I'd like to add there is a couple ways to figure out everything you need to do. 1. The Wahl Brothers Racing catalog has very helpful set ups in calculations that with a little Math or a  Calculator you can figure out what you need. 2nd a good friend of mine is a engineer that came up with a calculation that's within a tenth in mph & E.T.. 3rd there is always the Aaen clutching book along with Aaen's carburetor book all would get you going in the right direction. Everyone has different set ups and every sled will act differently to the same set up.
 If you believe your engine puts out 100hp @ 9250 rpms most engine builders will tell you it's about 1/2 to the track the only way you get more to the track is less rotating mass weight & must roll without restrictions (drag).

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #125 on: February 15, 2019, 01:29:27 PM »
Thanks for the info.  I called and ordered the clutch tuning handbook today. 

I put in a different weight spring combo last night, I'm going to test it this evening.  If all goes well I am going to a 600ft radar run tomorrow morning.   

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #126 on: February 21, 2019, 06:55:19 AM »
Take a black magic marker mark the inside sheave of the primary also do this to the secondary make one pass the belt will wear off the marker this will be helpful on what changes you have to do repeat the markings after every pass to see if you improved or not

gixxer6

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #127 on: February 21, 2019, 07:32:01 AM »
Another great tip, thanks!  I will definitely try that when the time comes.  However I have come to the conclusion that the motor just isn't making good power in the higher rpm revs.  I believe what is happening is that the Kawasaki kit pipes that I'm running are tuned to run around 8200, and my cylinders are ported to run much higher (I believe 9250).  I am working on a set of pipes that are tuned to make power in the 9300 rpm range.  I'm hoping to finish them up this weekend and get them installed next week.  While I wait to finish the pipes, I will work on reading the Aaen tuning book, I'm hoping it gets here before the weekend. 

sprocket

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Re: The Intimidator
« Reply #128 on: Today at 06:17:37 AM »
Get a note book and write down everything so the target is 9250. Example what you have now gearing, drivers, track width, length, skid along with wheel sizes and how many studs or picks, carburetor settings, clutches springs, weights, exhaust pipe, tachometer, temperature on engine, temperature of outside & barometer keeping notes you can look back on what you did. Any little change I use to write it down. Rotating mass is power loss.